After surging 72 floors to Jaan, I was guided to my seat and was instantly awed by the views from the table. The service was friendly and the waitress stowed our coats away. Jaan is no stranger to the fine dining scene and is highly ranked among its peers. In Jaan’s recent assessment, the gastronomic institution ranked 74 in the The World’s Best Restaurant List 2015 and 11th on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant List. But like always, numbers only mean so much if substance is not there. So where does Jaan stand already congested Modern French dining scene?
The menu for today was the Artisanal degustation which is promises nothing but the best from the Chef. For an added sense of excitement, the menu was not listed out.
The starter was a platter of “snacks”
Attention to detail alert! The crisp puff, the charcoal bread and the Chef’s interpretation of hummus with crackers, everything was creatively put together.
Chef Julien’s “My Hummus”. Can I have a jar to take home please?
The amuse bouche
Mushroom emulsion with tea. A frothy delicacy with little bits of crunchy puffs for texture.
HOKKAIDO UNI, cauliflower, ‘Oscietra’ caviar
It’s been awhile since I was served something so pure, and so clearly composed. The smooth, sweet and briny flavours paired sensationally with the creamy cauliflower puree. Add the buttery, and mildly salted caviar for a food coma. This was a very rich course but it did not leave the mouth tasting foul. Top notch! On the side were some soldiers topped with micro-herbs and what I presume was cheese.
BEETROOT COLLECTION ‘Burrata artigiana’, honeycomb, horseradish
The beet root course is what one calls “perfect timing”. After back to back indulgence from the hummus, mushroom foam and Hokkaido Uni, this dish provided a salvation like none other. The inspiration from the plate made me reminiscence the Asparagus Course from Amuse. From the beetroot Meringue, to the sorbet to the pickled beets, it was faultless. The pairing of honey and buffalo cheese with the beetroot was unmistakably text book material but its something that drives the taste buds to a climax. Even my dining partner JH was impressed by the substance on the plate!
ORGANIC EGG “JARDINIER” Garden peas,black garlic
Ham, peas and eggs, is a simple yet extremely classic dish native to several European countries. To finish, it was topped with truffles, Jamon and pork crackling. Execution was perfect. Think buttery crushed peas, crispy crackling, and runny yolk, all of which was serenaded by a note of truffle. No words required here.
CRISPY SKIN AMADAI Kabocha, in-house salsa
This is Jaan’s signature dish., the crispy skin Amadai. The dish sports an unmistakably unique feature. Its edible scales stick out gracefully on the plate which played a more textural role than flavour. In one sentence, the Amadai was prepared very nicely with an in-house salsa but the Amadai was the least impressive course at Jaan. When a fish course is a restaurant’s signature, I expect the same initial wow factor Testuya Wakuda’s Confit of Petuna Ocean Trout delivered.
HAY-ROASTED PIGEON White corn, foie gras, cabbages, cumin
This is Chef Julien’s forte, a game bird from the Bresse province in France (info from others). Served medium, the presentation was absolutely sexy! To this day, I still imagine the juicy slices of pigeon breast! On my first bite, the whiff of smokiness clouding the whole dish was mild but recognisable. The gaminess of the bird was mild but add a small bit of Foie Gras and it lifted the game to a whole new level. Boy this was great!
Palate cleanser
CHOCONUTS ‘GRAND CRU’ Tastes & textures
Chocolate, chocolate, everywhere chocolate. This is probably what I need on my final two days of work each swing. But having it 72 storeys above ground at Jaan in Swissotel felt like the perfect setting. Whilst I am still a bigger fan of the Death by Chocolate served at Petite Mort, the Grand Cru delivers a kick of chocolate in each bite. Every element on the plate delivered a sensation of differing creaminess, sweetness, and texture. Each of which easily earns a place on my tongue. From the bubble texture to the reach mouse and brittle logs, it was booms!
APPLE sorbet, mint
Apple sorbet, crystals, and jelly. It is hard to appreciate the course with its simple looks but as said before, looks can be deceiving. Apple and mint to finish was smart thinking by the chefs at Jaan. A description I use plenty of times, the dish delivered a finish that was clean and crisp.
MIGNARDISE or simply, Petit Four.
The small oven creations were Jaan’s final course finished with a whimsical sense of creativity. With the pouring of dry ice, a mysterious cloud hid a platter of what would eventually be revealed as Chocolate Macarons with mushroom filling, marshmallows, Canelé and Chocolate pops filled with mint. Technical faults were present across the board but after being so impressed by the Artisanal dego, I thought I would grant Jaan leniency.
If people call Jaan a good dining experience, I think the good just got better. The level of dining I experienced was not one that comes by everyday. From a Michelin perspective an easy 2 stars which is very close to a solid 3. Dish after dish, JH and I both commended the thought that was presented with each course. From the pigeon smoked in hay to the beetroot collection and even more so with the ham,pea and eggs, these were simple yet enjoyable pleasures! The execution of each course was flawless and the presentation was made artistic. My only disappointment was the course of AMADAI fish which clearly showed that just because it looked great does not mean it taste great. But then comes the humble bird which was Chef Julien's favourite and it absolutely sealed the deal at Jaan. Dining with such food on the 72nd floor also made it feel as though you were dining in heaven. This brings back good memories of me dining in Sepia, Sydney and Le Atelier de Joel Robuchon. Happy days! To Chef Julien and his crew, thank you.
WenY
