NYC: Yakitori @ Tori Shin, Upper East Side

Recommended by friends and seconded by the sushi masters at Sushi Azabu,  Tori Shin the one-Michelin star Yakitoriya in the bustling Manhattan became host to my dinner on a rainy night.   Equipped with a charcoal grill fuelled by imported oak-tree charcoal, Tori Shin remains true to the Yakitori practice.  In here, be prepared for a predominantly chicken based menu which the chefs lovingly hand-grill each and every skewer.   I can already imagine people frowning at the word “chicken” but how can I blame you after having so many bad experiences myself.   Chicken is a common protein which means many people tend to abuse the convenience of it.  But after a long time comes something special like Tori Shin.

A moment at Tori Shin with Head Chef and Manager, Atsushi Kono.

As per usual, when at a restaurant like this I decided to go with the Omakase.  After all, if you are a newcomer and want to know what to eat, why not try the best the restaurant has to offer?

Pickled cucumber and radish

The first course of the night was a seasonal course of prawns, mozzarella, bean mix and a tomato like chutney.  It was nowhere near the conventional Japanese I was expecting, yet every bit was more-ish.  Fresh, and appetising with an intention to make one feel like eating more.  Reminds me a little of the pickled vermicelli at Kanta!

Then came the grilled Leba, or Chicken Liver.  Perfectly charred on the outside, creamy on the inside.  Imagine Foie Gras like consistency in the middle serenaded by a woody smokiness.  At the very last piece I added the recommended lemongrass salt which really elevated the flavours beyond the norm.

If you do not do organs, the salt will help a lot! 

The palate cleanser. A small bowl of grated radish with a drizzling of soy. 

Harami, chicken ribs.

Nankotsu, cartilage. Not a big fan of this as it is something I discard from my chicken every single time.  To some though, it is a delicacy.  A true example of the idiom "one man's rubbish is another man's treasure".

Pork Belly with Garlic Miso. Need I say more? Lovely crust on the pork with a garlicky miso to pair. Sweet!

Shiitake. I always knew this little fungus was magical beyond the large red toadstool in children storybooks.  Juicy, earth and with a drizzling of lemon, simple but yummy.

Onions.  You might think I am getting scammed at this point. Michelin dollar for chicken portions that no one really eats, shrooms and now onions.  Do not be fooled.  Even the Koreans put this little lovely herb on their barbecue.  When slowly charred over charcoal, these little beauties caramelises and becomes amazingly sweet.

Soriresu, or chicken oyster.  The most tender part of the chicken.  Juicier than the tenderloin or the thigh, inexperience chefs often discard this section with the carcass after carving the chicken.  At Tori Shin, a crisp and salty skin cover hide a tender chicken pieces that is simply juicy. Mind bogglingly good.

Thigh meat with yuzukosho.

Duck with asparagus.  Thinly sliced duck flesh could easily be mistaken by a high grade beef cooked to perfection.  But its mild gaminess was the giveaway.

The next summer dish.  A dish consisting of marinated diced tomatoes.  Felt like a Japanese bruschetta but with a much cleaner, and crisp finish.  Refreshing :)

Breast meat with Yuan Sauce & Moromiso & Shiso.  A chef specialty and favourite.  Tender chicken pieces marinated in a trio of soy, sake and mirin before being grilled on a skewer.  Topped with sliced shiso and Moromiso.  An explosion of flavours.  The chicken itself had layer of saltiness, sweetness and fragrance from the marinade.  Topped with miso and shiso it was a very nice bite!

Special meatball which consisted of two different mince; chicken and duck.  This was my request for my final piece.  It was simply wow.  Tender and juicy on the inside with rich flavours from the countless basting done.   Nom nom nom!

The last course was a rice dish.  My choice was the Oyako-don.  Chicken, eggs, scallion, onions and rice.  Whilst I found the over marinate was a little under and could do with more mirin/soy, I was absolutely pleased with the silkiness of the egg.  It was just so more-ish.  I added my own soy and made the dish a little saltier and was super happy.  After finishing, I had a bowl of chicken broth to wash it all down.  This definitely had my approval.  Good stuff!

The dessert was a Shiso sorbet.  Could not have had anything more refreshing to end the night with.   This leaf has a beautiful sweetness and fragrant to it.   Never knew it could be turned into something sweet as my meals on Seoul and now the States had taught me that Shiso was frequently used in savoury dishes.  To see it used as a dessert, was an eye opener.

Everyone has a different experience when it comes to eating.  One thing for sure is that the balance between good or bad never comes close.  For every exceptional restaurant come 3 or 4 bad experiences whilst most sit in the middle.   Then we have grilled chicken. Talk dry, sometimes undercooked flesh with the outer bit charred. God must be a very busy man listening to the number of complains from below.  But when done right, it become an impressionist.  A subject so capable almost like an art movement.  Tori Shin does exactly that.  Food is after all art no?  The one good Tori Shin does at this exclusive yakitoriya might be enough to make all wrongs done by other chef become right.  Faith in grilled chicken restored?  100%.  The good dinner tonight goes beyond the 1 star rating under the Michelin system.  Tori Shin has  got to be one of the most underrated restaurants in town!

WenY

NYC: Artichoke Slice @ Artichoke Basille’s Pizza, Gramercy

I was chatting to a couple of newly met friends when I asked "What would you recommend a tourist to eat in New York?", the prompt answer “Pizza” came first.  Without a doubt I enjoy crusty slices of pizza with generous toppings.  But with a city so bold so as to name a style of pizza after itself, it was clear that everyone will be calling their pie the best in town.  Online searches never quite worked either.  Too many haters out there.  So I fell back to a couple of Facebook schoolmates and the name Artichoke Basille’s Pizza came tops. 

They now have three branches and since I was about to dine at Gramercy Tavern, I decided to drop by for a slice of pizza at the Gramercy district branch. At 10.30am, there was absolutely no queue besides a granny.  Walking in I heard heard an old lady said, "I need this packed I cannot finish."  I was puzzled.  But not so after I ordered a slice of the infamous Artichoke slice @ $4.50.  

Stretched over two party plates.. wtfk was this monster?  American slice for the win.  It had a pretty good pastry that was cooked just nice.  Sadly though it did not sport the fragrance of a well-oiled pizza tray.  But I loved their tasty cream based sauce.  Very, very tasty.  It carried the hints of garlic, parsley and onions.  The stringy cheese topped the slices perfectly.  In other words, generous !  Then there were the little slices of translucent artichoke hidden the underneath but it was barely seen.  Weird to call this an Artichoke Slice. Could have had more artichokes :)! Toward the end I sprinkled some chilli flakes and really liked how it tasted.  Sprinkled more and more and more.  Oops.  Burnt tongue (and an ulcer soon followed =.=!)

Reading several reviews about Artichoke Basille's in the night got me annoyed when I found that many comments about this pizza place such as burnt crust, hyped for its hipster vibe, ridiculous queues and that sort of shit people make claims of were utterly untrue.  Coming in to see a granny at 10.30am, with no queues to eat a delicious slice of pizza reflected the credibility of the internet at times.  At Artichoke Basille's it was simple and tasty!  The only true part was the lack of artichokes which I was not really bothered by anyway :)!    Great stuff if you ask me!

WenY

NYC: Nom Wah Dim Sum @ Doyer Street, Chinatown

Having spent over a month without a kick ass Asian bite saw my cravings for good Chinese peak when I was in Manhattan. After a few quick reads over the net, I quickly planned a short eating trail through Chinatown. Once done, I got on the tube and was there in a matter of minutes. First up was a random Chinese place a minute or two from the Canal Street Station. I believe it was New Wing Wah Bakery. Not expensive at all to my surprise. Including tax it was around 90 cents. In saying that, all it took was 2 mouths full to finish. Now wonder the aunty at the counter said in a familiar Asian accent “Only 1 enough?!”. It clearly was not enough to fill a hungry tummy.

3 streets down and I was at Tai Pan Bakery on Canal Street. The egg tart at Tai Pan was bright yellow (pic above) showing how eggy the custard was. In terms of taste, it was not too sweet and had a nice custard that is not too runny/firm. It wobbles just the way it should too. But I definitely did not find it significantly better than the one I had earlier at New Wing Wah. Both of them sported an equally amazing crusty. Love how short and buttery they both were. But because the one I had at Tai Pan was fresh out of the oven, the warmth made more pleasurable to savour compared to the other. The milk tea at Tai Pan bakery is terrible though. Too diluted! 

If you have read a post of me at an old lane way stall serving great packed Nasi Lemak back in Penang or my post at Mido Cafe, Hong Kong, you would know how I am a bit of a sucker for shops with a long history. Here in Chinatown, no one knows DimSum better than Nom Wah Tea Parlour. Handed down from one generation to the other, this was the first restaurant in Manhattan to offer Dim Sum. Modernised by the current owner, this place still proudly displays its dated past. Stained signboard, mosaic tiles and other furnitures from the past was a clear statement of its age. 

But despite my fondness of “all things old", it was not the main reason I was here. Nom Wah Tea Parlour understands the dilemma of the solo eater during a social meal like Yum Cha where sharing is a must. Hence, it offers a steamed or deep fried sampler which allows solo diners to enjoy all the perks of Yum Cha without having to bring the whole brood to town. 

First up was my steamed sampler.

Great assortment of little dumplings. While I only had one mouthful of each to judge, I quickly found my favourite amongst the crowded steamer. The dumpling wrapped in yellow wanton skin (not the pork siu mai) was the tastiest of the lot. Very good. The Pork Siu Mai did not quite pack the meatiness of the one I would usually get in Hong Kong or Australia. Not bad though. Then came the prawn filled dumplings, expect a crunchy prawns bursting with great flavours. The seafood in NYC is really fresh I have to say. The two let downs of the platter, the Taro dumpling and the Vegetarian dumplings! Whilst the fillings were great, the thick dumpling skin was not so great. It masked the taste of all the other ingredients in there. Nothing a little chilli oil will not fix though. 

Next up I ordered a serve of panfried dumplings in fear that I might not be able to finish a deep-fried sampler. On second thoughts, I could have finished it anyway.

 

The panfried dumplings were nice. Skin a little too thick but it was every bit crunchy. To pack an extra kick to the dumplings, I mixed a concoction of black vinegar, chilli oil and soy sauce. Damn it was good altogether. 

The dim sums at Nom Wah were not mind blowing but it was what I would call typical good. High and lows were apparent but still, hard to fault. Edible in every bite, I disliked nothing. Then comes my dramatic talk. Culture, history and legacy. What more exciting than a place older than myself.   Perhaps I am charmed by it being old because one can sometimes get sick by the sharp edges and clean lines of modern cuisines no? Lets dine at somewhere less pretentious. This is where Nom Wah fits in. ;)

   

WenY

NYC: Fine Italian @ Marea, Midtown West

Heralding 2 stars since its opening day in 2010, Marea redefines Italian dining with a touch of class and excellent cooking. This felt a little contradictory to me as my perception of Italian dining has always felt more homely rather than classy unlike the French. It is usually rustic in appearance, filled with classic flavours and typically come in larger portions. Then again, that is just my mindset which was proven wrong by this unparalleled Italian restaurant. 

Walking in to the restaurant, the service was instantaneous. I was made comfortable in no time with the maitre’d coming to my table to offer his service every now and then. One thing I’d realise is the attentiveness of the waitstaff at Marea. I generally have a “lost look” and every time I looked up, the waitstaff would notice me, walk to me and asked if I needed help with anything. Lost Asian kid in New York? lol. 

After settling in, I decided to go with the Marea tasting course. A course that will bring out the finest that Marea’s chefs has to offer in a 5 course meal. Needless to stay, I was looking forward to the meal. First up were the three slices of raw fish. While they were fresh, the merits were in the combination of each pairing . The tuna was the highlight for me over the fluke and snapper. Whatever that green puree the tuna sat on only god knows, but it was simply sublime together.  The plating was sensational and the attention to detail was every bit clear in its presentation. Thinking back, I should have cut them into halves! Their small size means the joy was a little short-lived. Worth it though!

 ASSAGGIO DI TRE, a tasting of three crudo. 

My next course was a popular crustacean. On the plate were perfectly arranged lobster portions on a pressed burrata with the herbs, eggplants, tomatoes and basil seed. I will be honest here. The combination of the cheese, and lobster with a slight drizzling of olive oil was all I needed on this plate. Never have I had the cheese served this way before.  In fact there seemed to be a whimsical sense of creativity where everything just fell in place and worked. Basil seeds did not quite play a big impact but the fresh tomatoes added a sour-sweet note that mellowed very well with the lobster and the fresh creamy cheese. 

ASTICE, nova scotia lobster, burrata, eggplant al funghetto, basil seeds. 

A classic Italian staple, the pasta was my next course. But this by no means was any ordinary pasta feat. The combinations of flavours here can be compared to how an expert talks about a perfume. Different notes/flavours coming in at different time. It all seemed very planned.  The first bite always had a burst of tomato with a strong crab taste. Something like a bisque. Just as the flavours pass on, you get the sweet-briny flavours of the sea urchin. Decadent! I now wonder whether the sea urchin gave this pasta sauce a cream like silkiness too! Great sauce for sure! Its accompany pasta was called strozzapreti, something like a coarsely rolled spiral with less swirls through. Cooked al dente, the pasta was spot on ( I would be disappointed if it was not)! To finish, the chefs were smart to ensure the dish did not appear one-dimensional and added the garlicky crumbs which not only had texture, but a fragrance to match the well loved seafood used. 

STROZZAPRETI, crab, sea urchin, basil.

I was expecting a little beef dish to pop up at my table after having three courses of seafood. But least did I expect the showpiece of this meal to be another seafood course. This time a stunning dish of scallops, and root vegetables. Before I go further, if any of you watch cooking shows you will understand how important prep work is when cooking scallops. Chefs always say “hot pan”. This was where the magic happened. A really burning hot pan which was probably glowing red in colour. Scallops here were only cooked on one side with butter added at the end and gently scooped many times to cook it at the top. The result was a phenomenal crusty scallop with a melt through flesh. Intense sweetness of the scallop paired sautéed mushrooms, pickled shallots and slow-grilled endives set atop a smooth onion puree resulted in an instant foodgasm! This was clear why Marea has been one of the best if not the best Italian restaurants in town. Sensational. *respect* 

CAPESANTE seared sea scallops, oyster mushrooms, grilled endive, pickled shallots. 

To end, the Marea put together a strawberry dessert. I am not quite sure what it was but I tasted notes of pistachio, coconut. There was probably almond in there haha. Ok, I did not know what I was eating. My brain was still stuck in the previous course. One thing for sure, it was good but nowhere near as memorable as the lobster, pasta or scallop course. 

 TORTA DI FRAGOLE strawberries, ricotta crema, rhubarb, perilla

Boom boom pow! What a lovely meal I had that day. The artsy plating, sophisticated creations of Marea definitely had me think twice before generalising Italian finesse. Their marque automobile is after all the Ferrari. It has been said that always treat your subject with respect and your subject will reward for you.  Marea has shown the world what it does with the produce of the sea.  The ability of the chefs at Marea in retaining the flavours of the seafood was clear from start to end with each protein prepared with respect and garnished only with seasonal ingredients that bring out nothing but the best out of its seafood. There were not heavy lashings of cream, tomato sugo, vinegar or cheese. Most if not all ingredients were subtle and filled the undertones of each course. Very well done to Marea.  I am terribly impressed with this Manhattan establishment. 

Last but not least was the great service I received through out the day. Despite being dressed in chinos and oxford shirt whilst the businessman and woman in this trendy town were set in their black coats and formal wear, I was never neglected . Instead, the waitstaff were still every bit courteous with their greetings and I felt indifferent from the rest of the people. Definitely deserves the rating it holds. 

 WenY

Bites: Omakase @ Sushi Azabu, Tribeca

One of the most memorable meals I had in NYC was at a no nonsense sushi place in Tribeca.  Coming at 5.30pm it was just me,  a sushi counter and 3 Chefs. Sushi Azabu is a 1 Michelin starred restaurant. Serving only Omakase at the counter, it was perfect as I did not want to be making amateur decisions like the typical salmon and tuna cliche orders.  Instead, trust the chef to deliver what was in season.

After a courteous bow and jovial introduction, I had a go at a broth meant to clear the palate prior to starting the Omakase.

Then, an Amuse Bouche consisting of a slice of grilled Ayu (sweet fish) and sakura shrimps with Dengaku (eggplant) marked the start of my meal.

I was a little skeptical at jumping right into it as I felt it looked like a mackerel and I have always felt that mackerel carries a strong fishy taste.  To my surprise, every bit was super fresh.  No fishy gut taste and even the bones were soft. It was really quite sweet too.  Eggplants on the other other hand were well marinated and went very well with the shrimps that had a little saltiness to them.  In the hands of a good chef, some impossible looking ingredients become the most palatable.  True enough!

Next was a unique seasonal course consisting of a slice of white fish, and sea urchin set a top a curd.  I found it hard to understand and neither was the taste really outstanding but it was simply different.  In a good way of course.

Then came a dish more familiar to my taste buds minute seared tuna with wasabi honey miso.  The elements critical in delivering such a dish were aced with no mistakes.  Seared to perfection was one and balance in the sauce was the other.  A minute or a notch over and it all goes to waste.    The lean tuna slices here will not melt in your mouth but the flavours of the fish mixed with the sweetness of the honey and heat from the wasabi made it all a very pleasant bite.  Yummy!  

The sashimi course which came up next was splendidly fresh.  On the plate I had Chu-toro (medium fatty tuna), Snapper, Fluke, live Squid and live Alaskan Prawn.  Whilst the squid was less apparent to be alive, the prawn’s moving pods and antenna really caught my eye.  The other couple who had their's later in the night was too shocked to eat it that the chef offered to had the brains removed to kill it off lol.

What can I say?  So much to like but the prawns had to be the sweetest protein on the plate.  It was just tantalising! I am drooling thinking about it already!  The snapper was the least impressive fish for me.  The Tuna was yummy and the squid was the most unique considering the its combination with the plum sauce.  After finishing this course, the prawn head was deep fried and served again to me.  Crispy, and slightly salted.  It was the tastiest bit in the Sashimi course!  

I never had the chance to go to Japan to experience the full sushi experience for various reasons. Nonetheless, I have heard enough from experienced people that a meal at Sushi Azabu is as close as you will get to Japan’s best sushi meals in the States.  Without a doubt, I was impressed about what Sushi Azabu served next.  To prevent a massive repeat of the F-word for fresh, I shall let the pictures do the talking here. Shim, the sushi master said that the fish arrives fresh every Monday at Sushi Azabu which was the day I went.  So now you know when to get your sushi fix :)!

Kohada, Japanese Gizzard Shad with Marinated Seaweed.  

Herring with Shiso Leaf.

Salmon Aburi, Torched Salmon

Zuke, Marinated Tuna.

O-toro, Fatty Tuna.  Picture says enough I believe :)!

Shiro Ebi, White Sweet Shrimp.  At this point, I started thinking of how people say that prawns need to be cook right and wondered whether prawns when fresh should just be eaten raw.  It was sweeter than ever!

Unagi Sirayaki, Fresh Eel Simply Grilled.

Anago, Conger Eel.   This was perhaps my least favourite.  I never quite liked eel but this one tasted more fishy due to its minimal preparation.  The difference between the two was the origins of the eel.  This was a salt water and is usually prepared with minimal season whilst the fresh water one above is usually grilled.

Yariika, Spear Squid. 

Alaskan King Crab with Caviar.  You know that feeling when you bite into a thick piece of a crab claw flesh that has been freshly steamed following its catch from the sea?  The tender flesh overflowing with the mild saltiness?  Noms!

Clam miso.

Uni, Sea Urchin.  I never had a good Uni before.  Until I came here.  It was top notch.  Briny, sweetish, creamy and just so decadent.  Booms!

The last savoury piece was the Negitorotaku-Maki or Blue Fin Tuna with Takuan and Scallion Roll. The apprentice’s special.

Tamago, Tokyo Style Egg Omelet.  I loved this and it was prepared by the apprentice too.  He got me two more slices cause I really liked it haha.  Biting into the Tamago, the crisp outer parts tasted like a really enjoyable eggy cake before going right into the middle  where you get this false feeling as if you are biting into a creamy custard.  Absolutely lovely.  Some criticise it for being not sweet enough, which is true when served as a sushi.  On its own, it was just perfect.

Mochi filled with a strawberry and red bean paste (Azuki).

At the end of the meal, I stayed to finish my tea.  My time spent stoning suddenly turned to thinking of how awesome this meal was.  In front of me was a ranked crew from master to apprentice folded my rice to shape, sliced the fish and prepared every piece of sushi I polished.  It was made to look simple that perhaps, even a baby could do it.  Yet, the rice is compacted enough to hold itself when lifted which chopsticks and loose enough to just unfold in your mouth at the slightest touch.  The seasoning in the sushi rice hit all the right notes.  Sweet, salty and sour.  Temperature was right for my common tongue.  I would be proud to be them for one night.

Kept safe from all the unnecessary hype, Sushi Azabu serves authentic style sushi for good value. $120 got me an amuse bouche, 2 seasonal cooked dishes, 1 sashimi platter, a sushi course (10-13pcs) and 1 dessert.  This is nowhere near cheap obviously but at this level of dining, Sushi Azabu felt like a bargain.  Not to mention the enjoyable perks you get in such a place that you do not get at other Michelin starred restaurants.  Proximity was one of my biggest likes at Sushi Azabu.  By the end of the night I knew all three of the chefs names and it was pretty cool.  The careful explanation of the chefs about each sushi and their attentiveness in folding the sushi right before you makes it a very special occasion.  Also, do note that other similar places would charge upwards for $180 with Masa apparently charging close to $400 for their Omakase. Other types of fine dining establishment would easily be double or similarly priced and all you would get is a table with food coming from the appetisers through to dessert.

WenY

NYC Bites: The Best Burger @ Spotted Pig, Greenwich Village

There are burgers and then there is THAT burger.  The one that you have been waiting for.  After looking at tonnes of websites including the Gothamist, NYCSeriousEats and a whole host of blogs, I was on my way to what could possibly be the best burger on the East Coast.  Welcome to the Spotted Pig.  A Michelin starred casual dining restaurant set within the Greenwich Village.

Expect to see pigs on the wall, on the counter, along the rails and when your dish arrive, possibly on your plate too. But no pig on my plate today, it was all beef!  When my cheeseburger came, I was thinking “Wow!  This looked exactly what I expected to see,”.  And it was even more to be honest.  

It was simple and lovely.  The bun came with the most perfect chargrilled marks and the thick patty was cooked to order; spot on medium with that lovely pink middle.  Its meat was absolutely tender and seasoned right.  Salt and pepper.  Then comes my biggest love.  The smear of Roquefort cheese.  This French beauty with them lovely mould spots have always been a favourite of mine.  The fragrance of the Roquefort paired with its tangy, sweet - saltiness just provided a depth of richness not achieved by the boring Swiss.  No insults :P!  That is why, whenever I go to Jus Burgers it was always for their blue cheese burger!With a burger patty between two buns and nothing else?  Damn it was heavenly.   

Then comes the fries.  WOW!  So thin and crisp that the picture barely justifies it.   Not to mention the mild garlicky rosemary flavour infused into the regular potatoes that is even harder to explain.  

Alright.  I tend to talk about minimalistic dishes and several restaurants that focuses on purity.   It is usually difficult to relate such characteristics to a burger considering all the other elements that are usual slopped on to a burger including ketchups, mustards, salad and god knows what else.  But when you are presented with a patty, bun and cheese, it was hard to be distracted from the quality of each ingredient.   Here it simply worked.  No need for any special sauce.  No Shack Sauce, Big Mac Sauce or whatsoever Umami driving the sales of other joints.  Just plain old burger with whatever you might want to add after.  

A class act?  I definitely think so if.  And that is a BIG IF you enjoy the Spotted Pig's take on the classic cheese burger as this one is not for everybody.  Instead the Spotted Pig's famous Cheeseburger is likely to please people who enjoy cheese and burger rather than the cheeseburger one normally gets  as the Roquefort is not for everybody.  For me? Spotted Pig, damn you are good.  I loved every bit of this cheeseburger meal and would definitely come back if I ever made another trip to NYC.

WenY