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Thursday, August 1, 2013

Penang Trip: Ah Leng’s Char Kuey Teow @ Penang Day 3

Knowing I could have had more earlier that day, abstinence kicked in as I knew what lie ahead. Barely an hour after my quick fix , I was now sitting down at another highly acclaimed Char Kuey Teow hawker in Penang.  Ah Leng  is known for serving some pretty good Char Kuey Teow on the island as well as the most expensive plate of noodles on the Island.  With the lot coming in at RM11, it could easily be one of the most expensive hawker food in the country.  However, I have become wary of such fads after a previous experience left me disappointed.  Coming in, I was expecting some sort of crowd due to the HYPE but you know what?  There was only a bunch of tourists leaving in their mini van.  Worst of all, there was a pile of leftovers which made me even more worried as I was now waiting for my very expensive fried Kuey Teow.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA Normal Char Kuey Teow RM6.

With its price similar to larger cities and significantly more than the price charged by the rest of the hawkers on the island, its only bragging rights were its prawns.  In terms of flavour and quality, I found little difference in satisfaction as there was no element of surprise which distinguishes it from the rest.  With all the mentions Ah Leng is getting online,  I was left wondering really what the fuss was all about.  Why pay more for something that is more readily available for less?  I was baffled.  Like my review of the 2 Sister’s version mentioned here, this is nice if the price was not a matter of consideration.  Having heard reactions from my local friends in Penang about prices I have been paying in town, I soon found myself stuck in tourist traps.

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA Mom also ordered a few  vegetarian dumplings which were ok! Fillings were good and the flour pastry was good.  Chilli sauce felt out of the bottle and adulterated.  All in all, it was rather pedestrian.

 

We also ordered another bowl of noodles and found that is was OK.  I would have to end this post with a verdict that the blogger hype surrounding this place is unjustified.  Tourist trap?  Definitely.  I felt that for so many reasons, this place did not meet the mark.  In the end, it seems like the only REAL reason the buzz surrounding this place exist lies in a very old saying.  It’s like the blind leading a blind.  Rather hard to recommend.  For me, I would be happy strolling about older streets like Campbell Street, Kimberley Street and Chulia Street, blend with the locals and eat a simple plate of RM3.50 goodie!  In fact, the offerings were WAYYY better at Lam Heng Cafe which at least had a good Prawn Noodles and Yam Cake too!

 

Khoon Hiang Cafe

358 Jalan Dato Keramat, 10150 Penang

Opens 8.30am to 2.30pm and is closed on Wednesdays. (subject to change without notice)

WenY

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Penang Trip: 2 Sister’s Char Kuey Teow, Yam Cake, Hokkien Noodles @ Penang Day 3

It was 9am and Penang Island was still soundly asleep.  Quite a surprise actually as  I thought the older folks would be out and about doing their yam cha routine.  At least it was a quiet easy drive until we hit the busy Macalister Road. As we drove towards our destination, the “legendary” status 2 Sisters Char Kuey Teow, I was super excited.  Having slept early the night before, my tummy was rumbling and this made me wanted it even more bad.  But being a tourist on this island, I was lost.  Various times the GPS pointed us to the right location but yet, there were no visible signs of the coffee shop called Lam Heng Cafe.  That was because…it did not have one.  Really a FML moment as we had to drive a few rounds and THEN the road got super busy!  Your best bet is to look out for the hardware store next to this obscure eatery.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA No Signboard =X

Almost directly opposite Loh Guan Lye Hospital (Park behind the hospital in the derelict bungalows)

185 Macalister Road, Georgetown

Opening Times: Breakfast and Lunch

Closes on Mondays

 

Bloggers, tourist and I believe a decent number of Penang-nites still have an unwavering loyalty to the name of the 2 Sisters Char Kuey Teow.  Known for their atrocious behaviour towards impatient customers and to a certain extent their relatively expensive fry-up, they have been in the business for a long time now. While I have no numbers, I am guessing at least half a century?  Walking in, the place was actually quieter than expected and to my dismay, there were no two sister’s but an elderly man.  It was then that I found out he was the son/nephew of one of the ladies which have stopped cooking as she was over 70 years of age now.  Amazing.  Her sister, unfortunately have passed away.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAUnlike most Char Kuey Teow in town, the 2 Sister’s version is less burnt but still packed great flavours.  It was tasty and the prawns were without a doubt very fresh.  That little bit of crab meat failed to justify its RM5 price tag compared to the RM3.50 charged around town.  In terms of providing taste, it was a very minor component.  Given its legendary status and publicity, I was expecting a little more “oomph”.  No, this was not bad in any manner and I believe this is still better than most places in KL, but considering the hype surrounding it, I was not blown.  Just a simple decent plate of delicious noodles.

 

Also famous besides the 2 Sister’s Char Kuey Teow in Lam Heng Cafe is the neighbouring Yam Cake stall.  I have seen various Singaporeans posting around the internet that the motto when travelling to Penang is to eat the 2 Sister's Char Kuey Teow and pack heaps of yam cake.  Some even commended the lightness of the yam cake which made it so delicate that its condiments had to be packed separately so as to not destroy the yam cake.  A bit of an exaggeration IMHO.  But hey, a little drama adds colour to the experience, no?OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA But I will be honest here.  It was good.  As described by most as fluffy and delicately prepared, I could feel it.  The yam was cooked perfectly. Consistency was smooth and the generous toppings of dried shrimps, fried shallots and scallions really gave it a boost of flavour and fragrance.  It was yums!  I remember it being RM3! Not bad at all!

 

Dad’s also decided to give the Prawn Noodles here a shot.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADad says the noodles here was simple and traditional.  Its flavours captured the basics of the Prawn Noodles.  Flavoursome broth rich in flavour with the usual suspects; hard boiled eggs, shallots, pork slices and prawns. Dad seemed to enjoy this quite a fair bit.  He left a bit for me and I was contented with it.  It tasted right but I could not tell the difference between the one we had here and the one we had later on.    Would I eat it?  Definitely a yes.

 

This breakfast which most would consider fat, full of carbs and unhealthy felt great.  The morning heat was rather mild so eating all this sort of food was still bearable and very enjoyable.  However, I did not get the hype surrounding my hawker fare today.  Yes it’s flavour was good but is it cream of the crop which most claim it to be?  I find it hard to agree.  However, if I am looking for great food all in one place, I would definitely come to Lam Heng Cafe.  Start with a Hokkien Mee, continued by a yam cake and finish off the meal with the 2 Sister’s Char Kuey Teow was something I could have easily done all by myself.  A Malaysian serving is no more than half a serving in Australia haha.

 

WenY

Friday, July 26, 2013

Penang Trip: A Heritage Experience @ 1881 Chong Tian Lou

As it claims,  1881 Chong Tian Lou  is Malaysia’s only heritage hotel.  Like a time warp, it allows diners and hotel guests alike to experience the past with the refurbishment meticulously conducted using vintage furniture and selected fittings.  Housed in a 13 decades old concrete work, this new establishment was previously a hotel for rich traders and merchants back in the 1800s hence its name 1881 Chong Tian Lou.   For me, this was my first proper meal in Penang.  The last two days that was filled with hawker fare has left my stomach craving something better and perhaps less hawker-ish.  Mind you, my choice of coming here was based on a Penang lass’s recommendations of what Penang folks would have. 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA My pictures of the interior were really horrible but I think I managed to salvage one I took from a sitting position! Some of the vintage mirrors hung on a wall.

 

Being an upper class Chinese restaurant, the service was prompt and the manager was outmost helpful.  I immediately felt welcomed as I stepped in.  The menu was presented to us and the tea service was always there although in the end we preferred to serve the tea by ourselves. For tonight’s meal I was to follow the recommendations of the chef as well as a few Penang bloggers.

 

We started with the sharks fin soup which is an age long delicacy in my culture and something which my parents enjoy having.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA For me, sharks fin typically meant meaningless luxury as this tough strands of protein like other Chinese delicacies such as abalone are typically tasteless.  However, it was the broth and other ingredients that typically makes the dish stunning.  In the case of 1881 Chong Tian Lou, the flavours in the soup were simply amazing.  The long list of ingredients included dried scallops from its unmistakable sweetness as well as a rich bone broth with generous amount of crab meat and roe.  Among ourselves, we agreed that this is probably one of the best sharks fin soup we have ever eaten with generous clumps of fin present.  Its nearest competitor would be the one at Overseas Restaurant @ Imbi, KL which cost RM20 per bowl.  Here we paid RM80 for a medium serve which scooped up 8 bowls similar to the one in the picture. Smashing value IMHO.

 

Our next dish was the chef’s specialty bean curd dish @ RM15 (small serve).OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAs good as it looks, it actually tasted great.  The bean curd itself was no stunner but by all means meet the standard of being sufficiently smooth and soft on the side.  Its sauce though was yummy-liciously Malaysian.  Salty with a slight hint of sweetness and chilli, it was meaty with generous amounts of mince and diced prawns.  Topped with scallions, it was fragrant and down right tasty.  Something that goes perfectly with rice! Definitely a thumbs up dish!

 

The next dish to hit the table was the Sambal Fried Four Heavenly King @ ~ RM15 (small serve).   OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhere appetizing vegetables are concerned, little can fault with a sambal stir-fry.  The sambal for this dish at 1881 Chong Tian Lou is fragrant with a Nyonya influence which means it has a mild sour-sweet flavour.  Vegetables were cooked right!  It was soft with a slight crunch!  At this point, I was rather happy be eating here.  All was going well and the price was rather affordable by KL standards.

 

Our next dish were King Prawns in Soya King Sauce for RM22 (small serve)OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis was another chef’s specialty.  It is a rather basic fry up but sometimes simplicity is key to perfection.  Very little to hide but it has got to be spot on.   Fortunately this was the case.  It was nice, sticky and well caramelised.  This made the prawn shells finger licking good and once it was peeled, a revisit to the plate to mop up the sauce was necessary :)!  While 4 prawns seems rather little, its large size more than made up for it.

 

Our last dish was the braised duck in preserved mustard sauce @ RM30 (half a duck)OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABraised dishes with preserved vegetables and melt in your mouth meats is a match made in heaven. In fact, slow-cooked pork belly in preserved mustard has got to be one of my favourite dishes of all time!  When I pricked the duck with my fork I knew I was in for a treat. It easily went right through and this means that the duck was braised sufficiently!  True it enough it was very soft and smooth.  Definitely a benefit of braising under low instead of rapid cooking.  But the disappointing bit of this dish was the preserved mustard sauce.  It did not have the flavour I was looking for.  It was not salty or sweet enough to complement the duck.  In fact, the vegetable was not as soft and as fragrant as I expected it to be.  As a result I was forced to use some soy sauce to salvage what would have been a great dish if it was seasoned well enough. 

 

After a progressive meal of well-prepared dishes, I was gutted that the experience did not flow through to the end.  The bill came to a total of RM190-ish with a bulk of the bill coming from the soup as well as Malaysia’s terribly dated 10% and 5% taxes.  For three people, it felt terribly worth it especially when you consider the ambience, service and ultimately the food we had today.  1881 Chong Tian Lou has put some memorable flavours on the table today.  The tofu was delicious and the Sambal Fried Four Heavenly King was spot on. The soy prawns despite its very basic cooking felt complete.  So, it broils down to how bad the duck was.  In practice, seasoning is always crucial but technique is equally important too.  To say that many places have perfected their braised meat with preserved vegetables would be an absolutely lie as I know deep down, that most only achieve mediocre outcomes. Hence, I am forgiving enough to rate this dish decently as an OK. 

 

Tonight’s eat at 1881 Chong Tian Lou was extremely satisfying.  In fact, it even best most of the restaurants in KL without a doubt.  No wonder my Penang friends in Perth are always homesick when it comes to food!  Definitely worth a revisit!

 

38 Jalan Pintal Tali, 10100 George Town, Penang Malaysia

+60 4-263 1881

http://www.1881chongtian.com/

 

WenY