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Thursday, October 24, 2013

Bites: No. 4 Blake Street @ North Perth

Ever since the opening of No.4 Blake street, I have seen many positive reviews that swear by the quality of the food this place churns out.  Having missed the Press Invitation on launch day, it was safe to say that I felt rather down to know how I have missed out on such a sensational event.  But all is not doom and gloom as the day has come where I can have my chance to try out the offerings of No. 4 Blake street.  It goes without saying that I was super excited.

 

Starting with the bread, it came in two flavors which was the plain bread and the olive bread.  To get the best of the butter I opted for the plain one.  When it came to the texture, I found it to be a little dense and not as fluffy as I hoped it to be.  Plus that lingering sourness after each bite made it hard to appreciate the butter.  And while the trio of butter looked amazing whilst seated on the plate like that, it was ultimately the truffle and caviar one that had enough flavor to be eaten with the white bread.  With 5 courses coming up, I only had the plain one and left the olive one in the capable hands of my dining companions.  For the olive bread, they commented that it was a little over salted and hence, it was more suited to the orange zest and the other one, which I am guessing was pistachio.  Not the best breads in town for sure.

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The amuse bouche for the night was a shot of turnip froth with beef jus and a side of crumbled tendon.  In this dish, I found that every element despite complementing each other, did not work by itself.  The turnip froth was mildly bitter and the jus extremely salty.  But when eaten together, it pronounced a good concoction along with the chewy tendon covered in a crisp batter.  Though not bad as a whole, I was not sure whether it built a good enough first impression.  It felt lacking the in your face factor.  Needed something to lift the whole mood.

 

As for our appetizers, the first one was the buttered yabbies, blood orange gel, “boudin noir”, purple potato crisp.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAButtered yabbies, perfection.  Sweet, moist and perfectly cooked. Fruit and seafood? Acceptable though some of my dining companions found the orange gel a tad too strong.  Then comes the “boudin noir” or the black pudding.  So ignorantly did we order this dish without trying to decipher its ingredients.  For me, having the pudding which was made out of blood was very physical, bold, heavy and to a further extent uninviting.  A massive clash of identities which I did not like.  Fruits, and seafood for me translates to foods which are light, fresh and naturally sweet without much need for too much.  Anyways, this for me was a case of too many things on the plate.

 

Seared squab, green buckwheat, crisp apple, endive.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhilst the meat was well-cooked for a small bird, it suffered from a massive salt overdose.  The sautéed buckwheat sauce was just overly seasoned and killed the squab in an instant.  Definitely something which could have been easily outstanding if not for the salt overdose.

 

The last appetizer on the table was the Venison pie & fresh tartare, quail yolk, petite salade.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe venison pie was definitely not my favourite.  The pie crust felt doughy and the taste was over all very mundane because it was bland.  Paired with the liquor gel, it was an even harder bite to swallow.  But its pairing just on the other end of the plate was out of this world.  The tartare was fresh and the use of a small yolk to sit on the tartare was just sensational.  It tasted fresh and light despite being so very meaty.  In the end I found it funny how this was paired.  One was so very good such that it was to die for but on the other end was a sad looking slice of pie.  I was bombed.  No idea what happened right there.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

After the appetizer, No. 4 Blake street adds a personal touch to the dinner by introducing a course called Al Dente, a pasta course to showcase the chef’s best skills with pasta.  One of the lovely things that night was how we had our dietary requirements met by the helpful staff.  Very considerate!  Before serving this course, the waitress reconfirmed that some of my friends were not able to eat shellfish.  For them, their Al Dente course for the night was a Gnocchi ala Funghi.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe gnocchi in No. 4 Blake street is flawless.  Fluffy little pillows of pasta made this a winner course.  But the mushroom sauce was a tad too salty.  For XL who ordered the squab and had this after, her eyes was seen rolling in salt-coma.  Even Jim felt so too.  However, for the rest of the table who was lucky enough to have the crab gnocchi, it was simply fantastic.  The crab was sweet and the tomatoes ripe.  The bisque was super rich and for some, it might be a tad too strong.  But I like strong flavors and this for me, was the perfect accompaniment for those fluffy gnocchi.  This was my sister’s highlight of the dinner at No. 4 Blake Street.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAGnocchi with Crab, Tomatoes and a Seafood Bisque

 

With the mains, we were spoilt for choices.  There was fish, beef, and a whole other variety of proteins.  But upon hearing how the duck was their signature dish, my mind was decided. Duck pave, smoked breast, duck fat Brussels sprout, sprout kraut, chestnut veloute.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASeeing the ingredients, you would expect a few things.  A slightly crisp duck, salty at the same time and hope for the best that the Brussels sprouts has not gone grey so it all works together.  The chestnut typically I would expect it to be naturally sweet with the sprout kraut bringing some acidity.  But was it what I expected?  Well the duck pave for me was right.  I thought it could be a tad more tender on the inside but no.  Small issue.  The Brussels sprouts came out green but a tad bitter.  Bad on that, but it’s a natural trait.   For me, the biggest problem was the strip of ? running across the plate.  It was thick, bland and with the chestnut seasoning left minimal, I found that the flavors of the dish were very light and felt lacking as the thick strip of puree that ran across the plate killed the dish.  Textural wise it hit all the right notes but without the right flavors, satisfaction was rather low and left me wanting for more to be done.

 

Ranger valley beef flank, textures of parsnip, candied kumquats, brandy braise OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATextures of parsnip? Checked.  Tasty beef?  It left those who ordered this wondering.  After a spell of strong salty flavors from the start, it left them wondering where did it go this time around.  But the beef itself was cooked to perfection which gives the middle a beautiful pinkish red.  Over all, not bad.

 

Pan fried Coral Trout, smoked sardine pate, mussels, Chenin emulsionOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA special touch when the mussels are topped on an edible shell, doused with wine emulsion.  The boys liked this bit but found the trout a little tough with the sardine pate a little mushy.  Over all?  They still thought it was nice.

 

Palate cleanser was a table pleaser.  Refreshing :)!OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

As for our dessert, we worked our way through several of their offerings.  For me, I had the fresh pear, Pedro, pistachio sponge, wild figs, bay and white choc sorbetOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe mild bitterness of the Pedro put a mature touch to this dish.  Its presentation was sophisticated but mixing it all up together gave it a pleasurable bite.  The springy pistachio sponge went well with the aromatic sorbet and Pedro mousse.  Crunchy cocoa powder and fig matched the textures this nicely.  Not a love at the first sight, but it was something that I learned to like and love spoon by spoon.

 

Winter Jar: Tonka bean and vanilla panna cotta, burnt orange jelly, malted crumb, cinnamon ice creamOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA moment of suspense arose when the waitress said “I will be back to finish the dish.”  It made us wonder for a moment about what was going to happen.  She then comes back to spray the perfume which sets the scene for the winter jar.  If you are a big fan of spices you would be blown.  This dessert has a strong cinnamon and nutmeg flavor from the Tonka bean and the ice cream.  Good balance of flavors but definitely not a simple man’s dish.  The girls who were more used to sweet, fruity desserts or plain chocolaty desserts found this a little hard to finish.  Funnily, all three of them ordered the same dessert. @@!

 

Passion fruit parfait, chocolate gel, passion fruit caviar & curd, chocolate shardsOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAJim’s choice of dessert for the night was the textures of passion fruit.  The passion fruit came in the form of a crisp, a mouse, caviar, dust and something else. I officially voted his dessert the best one of the night.  I voted for its fruitiness and lightness as well as a balanced sweetness courtesy of the rich bitter chocolate.  Definitely a winner this one.  He too loved his dessert but wished that the chocolate was sweet instead of bitter.  I guess that is what you would expect from a sweet tooth hahaha.

 

Rhubarb, white chocolate cremeux, orange ash, blood orangeOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis was easily the night’s second best dessert if all you want for the night is something simple, refreshing and not too cloying.  The rhubarb is a natural sweetheart and when used in desserts, have one of the best flavors of all time.  The white chocolate cremeux was creamy and not overly sweet.  For fishman who ordered this, he found the pairing just spot on.  He truly enjoyed his dessert!

 

At the end of the night, the satisfaction around the table seemed somewhat mixed.  A few of us had a good time while a few people, in particular, my sister found the food here rather average.  It is true even for XL who had a salty pairing all the way till her main.  To the extent that at one point, it felt rather sickening.  From the olive bread to the squab followed by the mushroom pasta, it was all too much salt.  The appetizers here were definitely not a strong point but as the meal progressed, things started changing and I found the desserts here to be outstanding along with their pasta course, the Al Dente.  But is it truly worth the hype?  I find it rather questionable.  It was OK and with the bad start evened by the good end, it falls right in between.  Even then, it really depended on what you chose.  On my side, I found that my main had the most potential to be the game changer.  It was nice to see all the different things on there but it could be a tad simpler with more seasoning in the veloute to counter balance that bland strip of rich puree.  Even for the yabbies, it definitely could do without the black pudding.  Sometimes, less is really more.

 

WenY

No 4 Blake Street on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Bites: The Cutting Board Eat House

“Kitchen! More chips please!” shouted the man serving us. At 12 o’clock, its crowd was busier than ever.  A new eatery has sprung up in the quieter end of Northbridge near my former workplace.  From the outside it just looks sensational.  Its monotone interior of black and white is very modern and inviting.  More importantly, the prices are quite affordable for the gourmet salads and roasts that looked rather healthy. For between $12-14 you could get a meat of the bain-marie with 2 sides which includes a variety of salad and chips!

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But can the food sitting under the scorching food lamp maintain delicious as the restaurant serves crowds of different times?  That was what my ex-colleagues and I were about to find out.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe chicken schnitzel ($12.50) topped with gravy came with a side of chips and steamed vegetables.  For me the chicken was just yummy.  It was still crunchy and its batter was more than just flour.  It had various herbs which made it a tantalizing bite.  The chips were pedestrian and for most parts could do with an extra pinch of salt.  As for the steamed vegetables, the cauliflower florets and carrots were cooked spot on but the broccoli flowers were very mushy.  To the extent that my friends felt that it was squirting out buttery fluid.

 

We also had another one called the Peri Peri Nice Chicken.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe chicken here was a little below par compared to the schnitzel.  I suspect that the chicken was a little over-roasted and having it sit under the heat lamp for so long only meant that it was still cooking while waiting to be eaten. The sides we choice were similar to the one we had with the schnitzel.

 

The pulled beef with chips and Greek salad.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis one had decent consistency, not melt in your mouth but still soft and tender.  But for me, one of the beauties of pull pork is how the meat absorbs all the lovely juices and marinade that it is cooked in.  This one here could do definitely with more flavor.

 

Looking at the food on the bain-marie.  It was all a little bit of a hit and a miss.  I loved the schnitzel but desired less of the Peri-Peri Chicken.  As for the pulled beef, that would probably fit better on the $9.50 roll option done with philly cheese, salt n’ pepper.  We also ordered a crispy pork belly which was actually pretty damn good.  But then, why would I eat here again if it is like any other take away?  That is because it is not like any other take-away.   OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAs my friends and I were dissatisfied with the options on the bain-marie, we decided to call something else to share.  This time around, we ordered a $17 open-steak sandwich from the kitchen.  Here it was simple.  You get a delicious and hearty slab of scotch fillet cooked to medium with crispy bacon.  Definitely one of the crispiest in town.  Caramelised onions and barbecue sauce finished the sandwich with a bang.  Chips came out warmer as the lunch crowd had dispersed and we were one the last groups left.   From this humble sandwich, we all agreed that things are better when made fresh from the kitchen, not things cooked prior and left out to dry.  With a range of burgers and food cooked fresh to order like the steak sandwich, chicken parmi and salmon, the premium paid over the typical lunch fare is definitely worth the extra buck!

 

For this reason alone, if you work in Northbridge but find crossing over to the city too much of a hassle, drop by The Cutting Board Eat House to try their food!  But beware, Jus Burgers is just around the corner.  I have not found many burgers that can beat Jus Burgers. 

 

WenY

The Cutting Board Eathouse on Urbanspoon

Thursday, October 10, 2013

Bites: Ace Pizza @ Highgate

Sitting on the previous site of Barollo’s is Ace Pizza,  one of the hot new places in town.   Opening its doors to customers no more than a few months ago, it has been very well-received and most have had a great experience here.  With a strong team which also owns Cantina 663 and el Publico, Ace Pizza was almost surely to deliver.  I was excited.  But did it?  Well, looking at the history of the business, I have been to Cantina 663 and was blown away.  Cantina 663’s shared plates were a hit the moment it arrived at the table and that kept us wanting more.  This gave me high hopes for the starters that were about to hit the table soon!
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The first appetizer for the night was the Chop Chop Beef.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERACoarsely diced beef marinated in salt, pepper, lemon juice and olive oil served with crispy bread.  In the first instance, a spoonful on the edge of the crispy bread felt sufficient.  It was tasty but only very subtle.  But the second round came a little mundane. It needed more flavoring.  Maybe more lemon, salt and a hint of sugar.  Would not mine some heat too.  Sounds a little Viet/Thai/Mod Jap but it needed something.  Beef was mildly tender but this was not your typical beef tartar.  
 
The next appetizer was the meatball with pepperoni sauce.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis for me was where my sensations were heightened.  I was elated.  The sauce was flavorsome with just the right amount of acidity. I cannot distinguish all the seasonings but it worked.  With the boss bringing in some extra bread to mop up the yummy sauce, it was right on the dollar.  I loved this.  The meatballs were soft and could break apart if not spooned gently, but I could care less.  This was spot on!
 
Our next appetizer was the Mac n CheeseOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA         One of the most popular Mac n Cheese in town comes from Merrywell many would say.  I am a big fan of Merrywell too.  But when it comes to their bite sized Mac n Cheese, it was their HP Sauce which I loved.   Here though, the chunky Mac n Cheese was served with none.  But I get it.  Who needs a sauce when the fillings were already so yummy.  It was salty, and cheesy with a crisp outside.  It was really good.  In comparison, I would have to say that this makes the Mac n Cheese in Merrywell taste a little bland!  I also suspect they might have used a combination of cheeses!
 
We then move on to the mains.   Our first main was one from the oven, the Beef Short Ribs, carrots and pancetta.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABeef ribs are probably one of the most gifted parts of a cow.  When cooked properly, it literally falls off the bone and its meat, to die for.  Just imagine a beautiful melt full of flavor from that perfect braise.  Here, it was exactly that.  So tender it would fall off the bone under its own weight.  It was its usual fatty self which means I had to cut away huge portions of fat or risk ending my night prematurely full from the lard.  Chopped coriander splashed across a diagonal was a smart herb move which complemented the beef well.  The side of carrots cooked in quality thick diced pancetta gave it an extremely good flavor which together with the caramelization, brought us to heaven.  But BEWARE that this is bloody sickening if eaten alone yet perfect when shared.  This lovely ribs brings me back to my trip to Cantina 663 last year! See it here WenY’s take on Cantina 663
 
The NY Strip Loin cooked to Medium – Rare was another main we ordered to share.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHere, it was cooked perfectly.  The middle was dark red in color and it just looks spectacular when arranged the way Ace Pizza does it.  However, we lamented the cut.  None of us had eaten this part of the beef before and obviously without research, we jumped right in assuming that it would be tender.  But it was not :(!  It was tough but surprisingly flavorful.  I guess that might be its only consolation.  No second time for this one unfortunately!
 
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThat neon. Does Ace Pizza qualify?When I think of pizza, I think stretchy mozzarella, delicious toppings, and a crust to die for.  All the beautiful things a pizza has to offer.  We had two pizzas to share that night.  The pig lovers which was a continuation with my love affair for the meat and the other was a neutral preference, the fungi magico.  Do not worry, no magic mushrooms involved.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASo where do I start? Ok, first things first. 
 
The stretchy mozzarella:  On both pizzas,  I wish there was more.  Maybe double.  As is, it was too little! 
 
The toppings:  For the pig lovers pizza, the toppings were adequate.  Large slices of pepperoni, and pancetta with two types of cheeses was a nice gesture.  Something I could definitely live with.  But with the magic mushrooms, I was a little astounded by the bareness of the terrain. I wanted generous amounts of mushrooms.  All the different types.  Earthy Portobello, with some thinly crisped, some plump button mushrooms and maybe throw in some Chiodini.  All those beautiful textures and flavors finished with crumbled ricotta.  Saying this,I am immediately reminiscing my on and off affair with Delizioso which makes the most beautiful mushroom pizza. Oh so good! 
 
Moving on with the base/crust: I soon start to forgive the lack of mozzarella.  At Ace Pizza, it felt as if they wanted to have subtle flavors that complements the base. Not the typical American overload.  The base was thin, crisp and over all good.  But for some odd reason, the fungi magico crust felt like it had a tad too much salt.  But in terms of consistency, I definitely liked this over the doughy ones from other places which includes the famous Little Caesar’s Pizza.  The one here was light and nice.  And then comes the Pig Lovers.  It was an experience which was marred by the fact that the toppings were pretty salty but the base was pretty thin.  At this point, my companions were like “salt overload”.
 
My take? I found a few slip ups but over all not a bad bite.   
 
Last but not least, we decided to give the desserts a try.  But we were not going to rush it.  We did it slowly.  If it was good, we ordered a next one.  Our first dessert for the night were the Tiramisu doughnutsOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMy preference for doughnuts has always been the good old deep fried ones.  Served warm, preferably, it should be fluffy and soft.  For a Tiramisu filling, fragrant and decadent but more on the sweet side instead of the mature liquor laced ones.  How were the ones here?  In terms of texture, it was a little denser than what I would have liked but definitely one notch better than the ones at Mary St. Bakery.  But it was ultimately the filling that we were not impressed by.  All it had to offer was a slight whiff of coffee fragrance which ended our joy quite prematurely. In the end it was OK only.
 
If I had to illustrate the enjoyment I had tonight, it started good with the Chop Chop beef, with my enjoyment peaking at the Mac n Cheese and Meatballs.  This followed through to the Short Ribs and it declined after.  Perhaps coming into what seemed like a pizza establishment, we expected a little more where pizza was concerned.  But here it was a little off.  The appetizers were good and so were the ribs.  With some burgers, this could be the best dude food establishment.  Unfortunately, it was not intended to be what it could have been.  Coming in at 6, the service was good but not great.  Still better than most places which are only average.  As for the pricing, I think what I paid for is decent in this environment.  A tad cheaper than Merrywell but easily comparable.  With all the mix comments I have given to Ace Pizza, the ultimate question really is; will I return?  Definitely a yes.  I so look forward to enjoying the starters again for sure.  Next time, I am definitely ordering the Lasagna which my foodie mate Queen of Bad Timing raves about!

See her reviews here Visit 1 and Visit 2.
 
WenY
Ace Pizza on Urbanspoon