Melbourne: Modern Thai @ Longrain, Little Bourke Street

While the highly rated Chin Chin seems to be all the rave in Melbourne, my trip to the modern Longrain on Little Bourke Street still shows that the top spot for Modern Asian is still up for grabs.  Modern Thai food has come a long way from the awkwardly sweet and deep fried things they were before, but was this a change good enough?  This was my first visit to Longrain in Melbourne and I loved its airy venue which paired high ceilings with its long tables that swept across the diner. On top were glasswares arranged neatly for the afternoon service. It all felt very "upmarket".  Its a nice feeling.  But remember, Longrain gets pretty busy so remember to make your booking via the telephone or the OpenTable website here.

To get the pace going, we order a couple of betel leafs! Mine was the betel leaf with pomelo, mint, green papaya, peanut and toasted coconut slices.  Som Tam on a leaf? Maybe!

Like how most Thai salads are, this one had a refreshing punch the moment you take it in whole.  There is something about the crisp vegetable crunching in your teeth whilst your palate is serenaded by the Thai dressing that simply awakens your senses.  Love that sweet-sour-salty combination! Not to mention that juicy pomelo and betel leaf that are sweet at first but carries a slightly bitter aftertaste.  This was an appetiser that leaves your mouth clean for the next.

Longrain’s signature dish of Eggnet, pork, prawns, sprouts, and peanuts served with a cucumber relish came next.

It is easy to see why the dish is so likeable.  Firstly, it is big.  Really bloody big.  But there is a little catch and it is that the dish is not filled entirely with meat and seafood but rather, massive amounts of juicy bean sprouts that compliments the herb and meat contents.  This to a certain extent felt like a noodle-less Pad Thai! It was yummy!  Its savoury, then a bit sweet but more importantly the dish was fragrant thanks to the little strips of kaffir lime, chill and lovely mint.  I really enjoyed this dish.  At the end though, I felt a little sad for the cucumber relish.  The balance in this dish was already optimal so I had no need to add anymore sweetness from the relish!

The next dish was the special of the day recommended to us by Longrain's waiter.  It was a whole fish filleted and deep fried served with a tangy tamarind sauce.

I love seeing my fish filleted with the whole lot deep fried to perfection.  Here the batter was thin so it only had a mild crisp from the deep frying.  What it lacked in crispy batter, it made up for by ensuring that the flesh was kept superbly moist.  Drizzle a little lime juice over the fish before dipping it into the Tamarind sauce and wow! It was an amazing meal!   This was one of my favourite dishes that day which I believe Hendra enjoyed too.  It aced both presentation and taste well.

The next dish to hit the table was the dish of pork hock.  Need I SAY. The dish looked good!!! At Longrain, the presentation is almost as important as the cooking.  

Before we started, the waiter explained to us that the dish has a lot of sugar.  To balance the sweetness, Longrain uses a chilli-vinegar concoction that brings a sense of balance to the dish.  True enough, I can imagine the dish being immensely sweet without the vinegar.  Whilst this dish was quite good, it can very quickly become overwhelming because of that deep fried fatty pork hock combination with a fairly sweet and sour sauce.  Definitely not a dish to be ordered for one, but its something to be shared around the table.  It is almost as if one piece is too little but two on the other hand is too much!

Last but not least was a dish of stir fried king prawns, and mussels in a turmeric x chilli sauce.

The dish looked meagre on the first sight.  All we had were 4 prawns and 3 mussels.  But fret not, each piece of seafood were still rather plump in size.  But Mei reckon that the garnish of fried kaffir lime leaf would already cost a fortune! She is most definitely right because Kaffir Lime leaves are  really expensive!   Putting prices aside, this dish is pretty damn tasty thanks to it sauce.  Also, the turmeric is really mild so do not worry if you dislike that herb.  In a nutshell, it was a rather tasty but a little expensive :P!

While I would have loved to order a dessert to end, my stomach thought otherwise.  I was very full!  With a bill the creeped close to $190, Longrain is by no means a cheap affair.  For 4 diners, we might have been overly ambitious and ordered too much but no regrets here for sure.  The service was decent, food was tasty, the ambience comfortable and more importantly, the company that afternoon was spot on.  My best comparison for modern Thai would be Nahm Thai which has now been branded to Nunam as well as Galangal Thai and Red Opium, all of which are in Perth.  Out of these four places (including Longrain), it is clear that Longrain is a winner for the many reason which includes better value, greater creativity and  more originality.  Nahm Thai dulls in comparison to the lot especially when most Perth people considers Nahm Thai to be Perth’s finest modern Thai restaurant.  In my opinion, only Galangal Thai’s Pad Prik King and Red Opiums incredible tapas selection comes close to challenging the delicious fish and egg net dish I had today at Longrain :)!  Oh do not forget, Galangal Thai is possible the cheapest contender of the lot albeit its small serving sizes!

WenY

Melbourne: Little Ramen Bar X Shanghai Street Dumpling @ Little Bourke St.

The traditional Ramen has strong following that prompted many brands and independents to open outside its place of origins.  Whilst famous brands have a strong backing due to their established names, the independents are not deterred from defining their own ramen.  Such is the story of the Little Ramen Bar who has been serving delicious bowls of ramen from its narrow spot on 5/346 Little Bourke St.

Classic dishin’with a round of Gyoza for the table.  Yes? No? Maybe?  Typical.

A page long ramen selection threw me into the usual dilemma.  But I came here twice so my problems were solved :)!  The first round I saw me order the Hokkaido Ramen.  A delicious miso broth combines mixed vegetables, minced pork, corn, butter and a slice of BBQ pork for a full Japanese Northern Island experience.  Its butter melts into an aromatic whiff making the tasty broth even richer and more flavourful.  But surprisingly though, my added egg was the killer of the lot.  The runny brilliant orange yolk was all the rave.

In the second round, I shared a classic ramen + chashu slices with AC.  EGG, PORK and RAMEN.  Is there a more delightful combination?   The porky - creamy goodness stems from what the place says is a result of 10 hours of cooking.  Sure seems legit to me!

Sharing seems a little strange as it is something I do very infrequently.  But worry not.  The Little Ramen Bar is a few door Shanghai Street Dumpling on 342 Little Bourke St.  Another popular place that serves quality dumplings for decent pennies.  After queueing for a bit and yes, you have to queue for both the Little Ramen Bar and the Shanghai Street Dumpling, we were seated outside.  At Shanghai Street Dumpling, you order before you are seated which seems like a legit way to increase a restaurants efficiency.

This was my second dumpling meal after an overkill of Xiao Long Bao at Hutong.  Still scared of dumplings, I decided to call a crab and pork Xiao Long Bao in anticipation that the sweetness of the crab flesh would mellow well with the pork broth.

Did it work?  Comparing the two Xiao Long Bao I had at Hutong and Shanghai Street Dumpling, the one at the latter was significantly less cloying.  Thanks to the addition of the crab, there was a subtle seafood flavour through the dumpling which made it more palatable.

Shanghai Street Dumpling’s Pan Fried Pork Buns.

This dish was a reminiscence of my trip to Taiwan where the road side vendor serves these little pan fried buns at the speed of light.  But remember, do not bite in so quickly!  The hot juices within can burn and it will.  Go slow and steady!

(Note: The Chili Oil Wantons at Hutong are heaps nicer than the ones at Shanghai Street Dumpling.)

Do you want lunch with variety?  Look no further.  The Little Ramen Bar and Shanghai Street Dumpling are within close proximity of each other on this strip of Little Bourke Street.  Mind blowingly good?  Perhaps they were not the best in the world as the ramen in NYC/KL carries more weight and even the street vendors of Taiwan makes kick ass dumpling for half the dime.  But for where we are, feast your buds with their creations and enjoy with little concerns for your wallet!  They were really quite good!

Check out my other Ramen posts:

Dosukoi Ramen @ Allendale Square, Perth

Kai Ramen @ Bull Creek, Perth

Oceans Ramen @ Northbridge, Perth

Nao Ramen @ Murray Street, Perth

Ramen Lab @ Mount Lawley, Perth

Genki SET Japanese @ Den Haag, Netherlands

The Little Ramen Bar @ Little Bourke Street, Melbourne

Ippudo Ramen @ Hong Kong

Hide Chan Ramen @Midtown East, New York City

Totto Ramen @ Hell's Kitchen, New York City

WenY

Bites: Modern Dining @ St. Michael, Mount Lawley

Sitting in the place of Jacksons, WA’s legendary status degustation spot, St. Michaels is the new kid on the Beaufort Strip.  While I never knew the exact details of the owners, I did know that St. Michaels were the brainchild of the Red Cabbage establishment which hmmm did not provide me with much confident at all.  Do not get me wrong, Red Cabbage is a fine place but  I was not the keenest person after being scarred by the lacklustre of creativity from my first attempt there.  However, my sister was keen to give this place a chance and so I went anyway.  For those who are not aware, St. Michaels is now open for dinner which had just happened a couple weeks back ;)

However, because no one knew they were open for nights, we were one of the only two tables that night.  I loved being treated as if I had booked the whole place but really, it was just pure luck haha.  The dining style here is a choice of a la-carte tapas or degustation but we went for the degustation which was a no-brainer considering the $89 tag will be quickly surpassed if orders were done a la-carte.

After enjoying some crisp lavosh and bread with whipped vegemite butter, my attention turned to St Michael’s first course, the cold pickled vegetables and Bresola.

Highly acidic on the first bite, I quickly grew fond of this setup.  The musky beefy Bresola paired with the sour-sweet roots  made summer dining a bliss.  The taste was fresh and crisp.  A meal that left a very clean feel to the palate.

Australian seafood is a major highlight during the summer.  St. Michael brings the flavours of South America to plate in this dish of seared scallops.

The perfectly seared scallops were of a decent size but not massively huge. But where flavours were concerned, the dish was well-composed with the tasty salsa and sweet almost buttery charred corn complementing the fresh scallops.  Likeable at every aspect, there was a certain predictability about this setup that might have made the experience all a little too “common”.

The next dish was something a little more special with pumpkin puree, orecchiette and pecorino making their way to the table.

On the plate was pureed pumpkin with little pasta shells called orecchiette and roasted pumpkin, topped with fragrant pecorino cheese.  Sweet, a little cheesy with some pasta is how I would describe this one.  It was quite basic and could easily have been a really good dish.  However, there was an inconsistency across the plate with the doneness of the pasta.  Some were a little soft whilst a few were hard with a few sitting al dente in the middle.  I honestly did not mind it but sitting on the Jacksons’ spot where I had previously dined commands a lot of integrity :P!

The next dish of quail, carrot puree and deep fried crumbled ricotta was absolutely gold.

Cooked spot on, the quail was perfectly pink in the middle and superbly tender.  Then comes the silky gel-like carrot puree that was just sensationally seasoned.  Not too sweet, or salty, but just nicely ripe in the middle!  One its own or together, the crumbed ricotta is every kids dream snack.  Fluffy in the middle, crispy on the outside but more important, delicious. To finish was some popped buckwheat to give the dish a crunch.   Have all the elements at once and you would be thoroughly impressed.

After grazing through the appetisers, the plat de résistance arrived.  It was a dish of lamb. My first bite quickly reminded me of the lamb & scallops dish at Nine Fine Food in Highgate.  The lamb was slow cooked and pulled apart before being formed and temporarily pan fried to caramelise the outsides.  The fat contents were definitely pretty high with this one as it literally melted in my mouth!  Little bits of nifty tricks to break the norm like the mint jelly was quite a joy to have.  To sum it up, the lambs falls into the category which I call “same but different” and I like it.

After resting my buds for a bit, our maitre d introduced me to the pre-dessert course.  Described as being neither savoury or sweet, the dish consisted of a thin carrot cake slice topped with celeriac ganache, little mounds of blue cheese, pear sorbet and poached pear.

I do not know where to start because this was literally my "dish of the night".  Its description falls way short in explaining how delicious this combination was. The spongy carrot cake with a tart almost sweet blue cheese paired with the refreshing sorbet was simply genius.  Add the crunchy walnuts and juicy pears to the equation and it was even better.  This was an exemplary reinvention of the cheese course where one has blue cheese with pear, candied nuts and crackers.

Last but not least was a dessert course after an oatmeal palate cleanser.  Themed parsnip, and honey, this was an all vegetarian dessert.

Parsnip sponge, and parsnip sorbet on cornflakes with honey drizzled all over.  To end the night, it was quite right.  Refreshing, light and over all quite easy to eat without leaving one feeling as if he/she had just eating a block of  meat.  Now, if only it was a little less salty!  For some reason the sponge has salt in it, which I found to be unnecessary because the cornflakes itself already has some salt.  Not a major fault but something that could have been easily prevented for sure.

At the end of the night, I enjoyed the meal at St. Michael quite a fair bit.  Unlike its more established sibling Red Cabbage, I found myself more enticed to the creations at St. Michael.  Dishes like the scallops as well as the lamb were rather predictable in flavour but still, faultless in all ways.  The carrot slice with the walnuts, pear condiments and blue cheese were exemplary in reinventing the classic blue cheese plate.  In saying that, there were a few errors which displeased me especially with the last dessert being quite salty or the pasta dish being inconsistently prepared but otherwise it was good.  Nonetheless, this has got to be one of the better $89 dollars spent in 2014!

WenY