Siem Reap: A fine journey of temples and food.

Siem Reap is a little city North of Cambodia that relies very heavily on tourism.  Well-known for its magnificent Angkor Temples and night life at Pub Street, I found that Siem Reap had a lot more to offer than just that especially for foodies like me.The Khmer cuisine by itself is a little lacklustre due to the moderate use of spices and seasoning.  Being sandwiched by Thailand and Vietnam, i.e two of the greatest countries for foodies does not help either.

But look a little deeper and you will realise that there are several places in town that pay a little more attention detail and infuses techniques not known to traditional Khmer cooks to create a sensory pleasing journey.

Cuisine Wat Damnak

Asia’s 50th best restaurant is helmed by Joannes Riviere who seeks to re-creates the Khmer cuisine with a touch of French.  The flavours throughout the meal were very crisp.  The finish was clean and there were not lingering/overpowering flavours from the usual suspects of fine dining.

Mie Cafe

Mie Cafe was on my itinerary as an option, and not an essential until I dined at the restaurant. From the zesty salad course to the skimpy dish of grilled prawn with butter and the rich chocolate fondant at the end, it was just heaven on earth for Mie.

Course 1; Carpaccio of snake head fish with Cambodian spices, grapefruit and hazelnut oil dressing served with poached egg tempura at Mie Cafe. They say first impressions are the most lasting.

Haven Training Restaurant

A  social enterprise aimed at helping the vulnerable by teaching them an important life skill. As Haven's tagline suggests, “where helping taste good”.  That is because for most parts of the meal, it really was!  

Touich Restaurant Bar

The menu looked suspiciously Thai but the food from these two regions are fairly intertwined making it hard to tell them apart without tasting.  While I could not find the Khmer inspiration in the dishes here, it was safe to say that Touich Restaurant Bar presented to me some very well-executed dishes that regarded the Thai cuisine in the most respectable manner.  That is, by presenting it with quality and authenticity.

One of my last photos of the trip at the Tonle Sap Lake, the largest lake in South East Asian and home to more than 1,000 different villages


WenY

Siem Reap: The Last Dinner of the Trip @ Touich Restaurant Bar

After having several French inspired Khmer dining, I decided to sample the local palate of traditional Khmer cuisine.  My meal at Khmer Kitchen (un-blogged) in the heart of Siem Reap was pretty decent, with a subtler, more balanced flavour that tended to be a little less exciting than its South East Asian counter part Thailand.  But what happens when you bring the cuisine one notch up?  Touich Restaurant Bar served my last dinner in Cambodia.  The menu looked suspiciously Thai but the food from these two regions are fairly intertwined its hard to tell them apart without tasting.

Eventually, we succumbed to the Thai cuisines on offer along with a lovely dish from the grill.  To start was a Tom Yam Soup and Mango Salad.

The Mango salad was absolutely sensational!  Sweet, sour and salty came together with the crunchy vegetables to whet the appetite.  Several juicy shrimps added short notes of seafood flavour but it was hardly as impactful as the mint and basil in the salad.  The zesty flavour the the lime was hard to dislike too.  Very good.

The Tom Yam was supposed to be a main but we called it as an appetiser anyway!  I have to say, whilst this was not the best  Tom Yam I have ever had, this little pot was laden with ingredients.  From Galangal  to Coriander to lemon grass, onion and the list goes on.  It is as if the chef decided to pull every herb in her cook book and give it a go.  To finish were some very coarsely cut up squid and prawns for protein. The product was very close to being sensational but perhaps the heat could be turned up!  For the best Tom Yam, nothing beats the one I had at Chatuchak Market in Thailand.   

JH’s dish after due diligence was the Stir Fried Scallops and Prawns  $10.50 USD.  It was Trip Advisor’s recommendation.

There were heaps of scallops in this dish but with most of them being very small in size, there was hardly any excitement.  It was after all the very similar to the Basil stir fry which we had at Haven Training Kitchen called the Lok Lak and something we ordered the night before too.  I think the both of us definitely could not recommend this dish to anyone. 

The last dish for the night was the Salt Baked Snapper $11.50 USD.  When the fish came out coated in a crusty layer of salt, I was sold.  Strangely enough reminded me of the Bangkok with the boys last year! Smashing fun.

The waiter offered to peel the skin off which we gladly accepted.  As the skin pilled off part by part, the moist flesh was revealed.  This was the beauty of the salt baked fish.  Juicy on the inside, but flavoured so very tenderly by the salt on the outside.  And the real killer lies in the sauce served on the size.  A zesty, garlicky sauce with a punch of sugar and a dash of acidity from the lime.  Sensational all together!

The meal at Touich Restaurant Bar was every bit satisfying.  It was a little over $30 USD for the two of us and we were filled to the brim!  So full it was hard getting back to the hotel.  While I could not find the Khmer inspiration in the dishes, it was safe to say that Touich Restaurant Bar in Siem Reap presented to me some very well-executed dishes that regarded the Thai cuisine in the most respectable manner.  That is, by presenting it with quality and authenticity. Was it a weird choice of restaurant to be dining at considering I was in Cambodia?  Well, maybe yes, but any regrets?   Definitely NO.

Do note that the seating is outdoor only.  In hotter and wetter seasons, mosquitoes are quite apparent so the restaurant offers free repellants.  

WenY

Siem Reap: Haven Training Restaurant, where helping taste good.

Fine dining in Siem Reap was a pleasant experience with local ingredients working their way to excite my palate.  But on my 3rd day, I wanted to fulfil a more noble cause by eating charitably.  I dined at Haven Training Restaurant, a social enterprise aimed at helping the vulnerable by teaching them an important life skill.  Note that Haven is neither religious or governmental.

As important as the background maybe, quality food is all that matters when you are in the industry.  So lets look at what we had that day:

Salt & Pepper Calamari 

This humble dish needs no introduction.  Haven aced it beyond the scoreboard in my opinion.  Crisp, lightly battered and served crisp, these moreish bite sized appetiser was simply but every bit satisfying.  The serve of tartare on the size was well-made with a balance struck between the tartness of the pickles and the creaminess of the mayonnaise.

Fried Corn

The fried corn is NOT a popcorn but rather a traditional Khmer appetiser .  Scrapped of the corn cob, the kernels were fried upon order.  It carried a unique flavour where it was a tad salty, garlicky, mildly spicy and herbed thanks to the generous amounts of chopped coriander.  It was really nice at first but the large serve was hard to finish as the kernels felt a tad oily towards the end!

Chicken Cordon Bleu

Like the calamari, I suspect that the Cordon Bleu is another classic Western dish introduced by the owners.  While the best Cordon Bleu probably hails from Switzerland, I was actually pretty impressed with the one served at Haven Training Restaurant.  It was faultless to the extend that even the chicken breast was juicy!   On the inside was a generous slice of ham and a decent kick of cheese!  Not the cheesiest but it was substantial.  If you are lazy like me and swap out the occasional Friday night chicken Parmi for a Cordon Bleu, you will be pretty impressed.  The chips on the side, not impressive at all.  Definitely needs to be crispier!

Khmer Lok Lak

JH’s main was the Khmer Lok Lak after a practice of due diligence to ensure that only the best dishes were ordered.  Surprise surprise.  Another Pad Krapow look-alike.  As I have preached several times in the last two posts, the Khmer palate is very SUBTLE.  So do not expect heavy lashing of fish sauce, sweet soy and lemon. The Khmer Lok Lak was no exception.  It was a little underwhelming but every bit delicious.  Something mom would cook at home because an overdose in seasoning is unhealthy! 

Banana Cake

A surprising appetiser that was quite nice actually.  A littler drier and denser than a typical banana cake but it was flavoursome enough to tempt.  I imagine having it with coconut ice cream would make it even better :P!

Charity is a very sellable idea in this modern day and if you are not convinced, come in without a booking at dinner and be turned away in an instant.  Lunch on the other hand is not so stringent.  And do not get me wrong, I am not belittling the idea of charity and honestly I loved the idea of helping.  As Haven's tagline suggests, “where helping taste good”.  That is because for most parts of the meal, it really did!  But was this meal really a $30 dollar meal including 2 coconuts?  Hmm I wonder.

Haven training kitchen is ranked no.3 on Trip Advisor and despite open voting, I am not sure whether the voters were voting by their mouths or by their intentions.  Needless to say if a person ever asked me whether I would return to Haven?  More yes than no for sure.

WenY