Melbourne: Brunches of 2014 (Operator 25)

Operator 25 at Wills St, Melbourne CBD

If you do not like to queue but have no intentions on sacrificing on quality, where do you go?  Frequented by my fellow Melbourne residents, is Operator 25.  Coming in closer to 11am, it was barely three-quarters full and we easily got a sit inside. Wow, high ceilings and an airy sitting area too? Operator 25 just seems to have it all at that point.  But can the kitchen deliver?    

Greeted and served with no delay, the menu was soon in my hands.  A quick flick and I decided on the Balinese Pulled Pork and Coleslaw on Brioche roll with Sweet Potato Wedges ($19).  Why bother with the staples like the boring big breakfast no?

Biting into that soft buttery brioche was a familiar Balinese taste.  Not it was no Babi Guling or Naughty Nuri’s, instead it tasted like my very own ex-colleague Mei’s Indonesian pork dish with notes of fragrant lemon grass, turmeric and other spices pounded together.   The delicious and tender pulled pork made this roll simply irresistible.   Fresh coriander which also happens to be a favourite herb of mine was there to ensure that the meal never gets to overwhelming due to its meaty nature.  Also, do not forget about the yummy sweet potato wedges.  It was very, I repeat, very delicious. 

My friend KK on the other hand opted for his usual fix, the House Benedict with Grandmother Ham, eggs, and Hollandaise on a Rosti ($15).  Definitely would have ordered that if I knew they used a potato rosti instead of the boring English muffin. 

The Hollandaise here had a runnier texture than usual but was still every bit flavourful.  The Grandmother Ham tasted smokier than usual too but I was not sure whether it was just me being overly sensitive or it actually was.  Was it a yummy bite?  I surely think it was :)!

An eye catching dessert of Vanilla Custard Sago, Rhubarb, Raspberry Foam and Honeycomb/Meringue ($9) gave our brunch a sweet ending.  I do not remember seeing a dessert so pretty ever for a price below $10.  This might be a first in a very long time indeed! And boy did it taste good.

Mild in sweetness, the dessert was bursting from the natural sweetness of the rhubarb and honeycomb/meringue.  Pair it with the sour berry foam and it was all very well-balanced.  Bite into the bouncy textures of the little sago pearl, roll it around, have another spoon of the airy foam.  Repeat.  Nirvana achieved.

Operator 25 was a surprise candidate for me, but for my Melbourne friends it was simply another day in the big city.  If mainstream delights like the Hardware Société does not score well in your books, here is where you belong.  Not regrets for sure.  In fact, this was my top brunch in this big city.  For 2 people with a dessert to share would have costed no more than $26/27.  (No guarantee of queue-less weekends!)

Looking for Brunch?  Check out my Melbourne Brunches in 2014

Hardware Société, CBD

Hammer & Tong, Fitzroy

Seven Seeds, Carlton

LE MIEL et la lune, Carlton

Breakfast Thieves, Fitzroy

WenY

Melbourne: Brunches of 2014 (Hardware Société)

Ever since I visited Melbourne 7 years ago, I have envied the lifestyle here.  Shopping and eating usually came tops but after NYC, I found that exploring the little lane ways that divides the city into small navigable plots was an even more enjoyable thing to do as a tourist as you never know what lies behind the next corner.   Putting likes aside, my most recent trip here is proof to why Melbourne is easily the brunch capital of Australia.  If you plan on visiting Melbourne, this 3-part breakfast/brunch post is WenY's verdict on the city's 3 hot spots!  With queues out of the door by 8 at most of them, you have been warned.  Go or not to go?  Your choice ;)!

Hardware Société at Hardware Ln, Melbourne CBD

My first stop at 7.30 in the morning was Melbourne’s top brunch spot, the Hardware Société.  I scanned the little eatery and found that it was no surprise that this place had hour long queues during weekends as it only seats 30-40 people.  However, solo dining in this “French” spot is a breeze at that time and I was immediately seated at the bar.

My breakfast was quick to arrive that morning and no it was not their famous baked eggs (too boring!). Instead I opted for a dish of crisp pork belly .  Damn it was good. For starters, the pork belly had the right seasoning and was soft through with its the skin crisp just right.  It did not have that bubbled crackling but a smooth crisp shard which had no intention of sticking between your teeth.  For presentation which I press hard at times, the eggs were picture perfect with its runny yolk trickling down ever so slowly onto the plate.  Damn it was a sight to behold. But ultimately, pinching bits of the plate and having them together was simply yums.

Pork belly, polenta hash, fried eggs, caramelised onions and aioli $18.

A delicious breakfast and a pot of tea was the right kick-start to my first morning.   But fancy apostrophe naming paired with gargantuan publicity also meant that by 8.20,  queues were out of the door.  As Melbourne’s favourite spot, was it all hype?  Definitely not.  But if I had to queue for a long time, I would rather not.

Looking for Brunch?  Check out my Melbourne Brunches in 2014

Operator 25, CBD

Hammer & Tong, Fitzroy

Seven Seeds, Carlton

LE MIEL et la lune, Carlton

Breakfast Thieves, Fitzroy

WenY

Bites: Francoforte Spaghetti Bar @ William St. Arcade, Northbridge

Before jetting off to Melbourne last Tuesday, I enjoyed a  meal of pasta with my sister at the Francoforte  Spaghetti Bar located just a doorstep across from Super Star Waffles in the arcade on 189 William St, Northbridge.  7PM always seem like a bad idea but thankfully on a weekday, the congestion in this little pasta place clears quickly and it took them no more than 10 minutes to get us seated.

After being seated, we placed our orders and were given a complimentary serve of bread, with olive oil and balsamic.

Kale Pesto

Kale and lemon pesto, pecorino, caciatorre sausage, spaghetti

Porco Rosso

Sugo, pork sausages, spaghetti

Guanciale Carbonara

Cured pigs cheek, parmesan, pecorino, penne

Having picked at various pastas around the table, I could not fault with the pasta served at Francoforte.   If was cooked right, served right and the taste was pretty decent.  Do not expect lashings of creamy and American style trickery to hide the pasta.  

Whilst I was not expecting the flavours to overpower the pasta, I was not exactly bowled over by the flavour combination and wanted more bang for my buck.  For example, the Carbonara had great saltiness from the generous slices of crisp pigs cheek which was a nice touch, but the over all finish to the dish was lacking.  It did not have the silkiness or an even salt distribution.  Without a slice of pig’s cheek, it was bland.  Similar comments would apply to both the Kale and Porco Rosso pastas.  The kale pesto one had a homemade feel that enveloped the strand of spaghetti very well but still did not bring me to that level of nirvana a normal basil pesto one does.  

Was Francoforte Spaghetti a bad eat?  Definitely not.  In fact, if I went to Italy, I would be looking for the homemade feel which I get from Francoforte.  Reading the comments of other, I quickly found the error.  If in Italy, the flavour of the sauce are meant to compliment the homemade pasta.  But in the case of using pre-made pasta, does it still work?  I have absolutely no idea whether the spaghetti was homemade or not.  One thing for sure though is that it did not have the same silkiness of the one I had at Marea or Rockpool.  Then again, the two restaurants I mentioned are heavily accredited by the folks at the Michelin Guide or Australia Good Food Guide.  

  

Francoforte despite being hard to fault, the pastas here were more of an OK than a “wow”.   In saying that, I would not feel obligated to even bother queuing on a busy day.  But on any other day, it could be an automatic walk-in meal.

Weny

Bites: Yum Cha @ Fortune Five Dim Sum, Northbridge

A sudden Yum Cha craving hit my sister over the weekends and when Monday struck, YH and I was at her office doorstep to get her a quick fix.  As per usual we went to our usual spot on James Street.  But if you have not noticed, Dragon Seafood has now become Fortune Five Dim Sum.  Thankfully, the dim sum here is now better than ever whilst the prices have stayed stagnant.   11.50pm and a full house filled with the Asian oldies and their counterparts was a clear testament to my statement.

First up were vegetables stuffed with fish paste and covered in a sticky black bean sauce.  Simply yummy!  The waitress claims it is a dish from HK but whilst in Malaysia, my mom does it with her eyes closed.  Confusion ~.~!

In the background is the bean curd roll and the prawn with coriander dumpling.  Not sure whether island life has made me desperate for Chinese food but the dim sum here tasted really good that day.

Another staple I ordered was the Siu Mai which was a little porky to YH, but for me it was a meaty little bugger.  I like my Siu Mai to be a little porky but not smelly if you get what I mean.  This hits my sweet spot.  Naturally, I had half the steamer as my sister does not really enjoy Siu Mai too.

YH’s ordered Salt Pepper Squid Legs which is his usual order.  I found the seasoning a little under but where Fortune Five does well is in ensuring that every piece of tentacle is coated nicely and cooked to perfection.  One too many times have I dined at Dragon Palace, Golden Century, Dim Sum Cafe, and other places that served me half-assed tentacles which were either only partially battered, or came out disgustingly oily.   

Last but not least were the egg tarts.  Who can walk away from a dim sum meal without a serve of these lovely tarts.  My dad would certainly have to give that person a lecture.  The tarts in Fortune Five comes in a serve of 3.  Crispy on the first bite, the custard was to my liking.  Firm enough with the right sweetness.  It could be eggier though.  I love my egg tarts after all :)!

Me bringing out the camera today was a little bit of a mistake.  For some odd reason I thought we were going to a new pasta place.  Thankfully it was of great use.   Fortune Five now has an appearance on this little blog of mine ;)!  Food at this new Yum Cha place has really got me wanting to come back.  The quality is there and the price is right.  I have not had the whole menu but from the food we ordered that day, Fortune Five Dim Sum really did well.  This is probably the best Yum Cha place in the Perth CBD area.  However, as I have mentioned in my previous Yum Cha posts, the quality of dim sum in Perth can be inconsistent, so if Fortune Five keeps up their good work, queues will definitely be out of the door!

WenY

NYC Trip: The End

If someone asks you how big is New York City? Just say “Too big,”.  It really is.  Over a week, I ate my way through the big Apple and found many places irresistibly yummy! Despite a sore foot, I merely covered an area in Manhattan that spans from the Upper East till Downtown.

Although I could never really finish the city, I think I did pretty well food wise and here is an almost complete list of places where I dined sorted into 2 price categories.

NYC Essentials (<$20)

Shake Shack (Grand Central/ Madison Square Garden)

An iconic burger places with occasional collaborations with top chefs that is neither too commercialised to be a joint nor too unique to be a one-off boutique burger place.  But if you are having one of those “days”, what better than a shack burger paired with fries and a happy ending of peanut butter shake.  Happy days!

Hide Chan Ramen (Midtown East)

Start the meal with a basic Gyoza before calling a main of Hakata Style ramen.  Black garlicky oil on an already amazing porky broth?  Damn it was heaven without the line.  

Totto Ramen (Midtown West)

If Hide Chan was North Pole, then Totto Ramen would be the South Pole.  Different from start to end, the only thing similar between the two is its owner.  At Totto Ramen, enjoy a Chicken Paiten Ramen so amazing it makes one dreams of it at night.  This is a legit pork alternative.  Beware, queues are long.

Pershing Square Pancake (Grand Central)

With popular places like Junior’s in the area, it is easy to overlook this relatively unknown diner.  Yet this might be your best bet for quality breakfast pancakes.  Crispy, fluffy and cooked through with perfection, it was all too hard to ignore.

Nom Wah Dim Sum (Chinatown)

Being the first does not necessarily makes you the best.  But the best itself could not be anymore subjective.  Old school fit up in this humble little eatery maintains its olden day charm.  Come in solo or with the brood, Nom Wah has got you covered.  When you crawl out of the bed during winter, know that piping hot dim sum is not too far away.

Artichoke Bassile’s Pizza (Gramercy)

I had one shot to get a taste of New York Pizza into my busy schedule.  Thankfully, a slice at ABP did not disappoint.  With the Artichoke slice spanning across two plates topped with their famous cream base sauce, stringy cheese and caramelised artichokes,  this might be NYC’s best value bite yet at just $4.50 a slice. 

The Halal Guy’s (Midtown)

An aluminium wrapped takeaway box with a Middle-Eastern scent is the biggest giveaway that someone is holding a box of faithful mixed platter and rice from the infamous Halal Guys.  From street culture to fast-food joint, the Halal Guys are set to dominate.  Cult descriptions of nuclear red rice topped with pieces of meat and lashing of white sauce is just the beginning of a happy end to the night.  Operating till 4am, now Twilight has no reason to exist. 

Chelsea Market (Chelsea)

So much to eat, so little space to put it in.  Here you can enjoy soup, fresh seafood, independent farmers’ produce, Mexican, Korean, pastries or simply just have a stroll.  From clothing shopping to a filling in a hungry stomach, I love this place.  Located indoors for your convenience too.  After the market, head to the Highline Park just outside Chelsea Market for a mile of enjoyable walk to aid digestion.  It is heaven on rails.

If fine dining has always been a part of your priority undertakings to understand the culture a city was built upon, these finer establishments might be the thing you are looking for.  NYC is a city of swag, so common delights can become fancy and clearly so when acknowledged by the headmasters at the Michelin corp.

Fine Dining at NYC

Perry St.  (SOHO, Bib Gourmand <$40)

Classy,  sleek and inspiring.  This Jean Georges spinoff has more finesse in its fried chicken than a French bistro does with its Foie Gras. Its seasonal menu takes simple life pleasures and make it into something special.  The courteous service makes dining here a bliss.

The Spotted Pig (Greenwich Village, 1 star < $40)

Why is this fine dining?  This is because a $30 burger including tip ands tax is pretty damn fine!  But after 26 years of my life, this 1 Michelin star eatery has delivered what I call the “IT” burger.  With a claim like that, many people will have high expectations I know.  But as mentioned, the thick spread of Roquefort cheese on the brioche bun with a juicy patty shows that the Spotted Pig means business.  But that is IF you enjoy the Spotted Pig's take on the classic cheese burger.

Marea (Midtown West, 2 stars <$100)

The full tasting menu brought my bill beyond the $50 mark.  But a bread course, 4 seafood courses, a seasonal dessert and petit fours make this a bargain.  Sit down and let the jumbo scallops, sensational pastas, lobsters, crabs and briny sea urchins make their appearance as part of a seafood orchestra by Marea.  Top level service makes progressive dining here a seamless experience.

Tori Shin Yakitoriya (Upper East Side, 1 star < $100)

Another Michelin rated restaurant.  If a sushi master pressing sushi is artsy, prepared to be wow-ed by these handy skewer chefs.  Head to tail movement at its finest, see Chef Atsushi Kono coordinate the delicious transformation of the pedestrian chicken protein into something amazing.

The Gramercy Tavern (Gramercy, 1 star <$100)

One surprise after the other, the Gramercy Tavern is like a roller coaster ride in your mouth.  High and lows in this Modern American X Asian fusion delivers the best bang for your buck of the lot.  Ranked 1 star by the Michelin guide, the inventive savoury menu will keep your buds craving for more.  But when it comes to a sweet ending, good or bad really comes at the toss of a coin.  However, at $60 plus service charges, the tavern is a lunch time gem.

Sushi Azabu (Tribeca, 1 star < $150)

The Japanese culture is big in the States and Sushi Azabu the front runner for no-nonsense sushi exclusivity without the overwhelming price tag of the more mainstream establishments.  Do not expect California rolls or heavy lashings of pretentious Kewpie to make their mark.  Instead, Shim prepares sashimi prawns, tuna, sea urchins and other fresh offerings served on divine sushi rice.

Food business in NYC is big business.  NYC residents are fussy and no trend is always there to stay when you are at the top of the class.  Evolution counts for survival.  Thankfully, with a superbly variable price tag, there is something for everyone.  Whether it is Asian or Western, Chinese or Japanese, Italian or American, be prepared to eat.  But prices in the big Apple can quickly add up especially if you do not watch the cheque due to taxes and tips which usually bumps the bill up by a minimum of 25%.  So, do tell me what you think if you hit the big Apple and try out the food I had.  Note that all opinions here are a from a hungry traveller's perspective which is one that is open and receptive.  If you come here acting all big headed with a mindset from home, it is likely that you will have different views.

WenY

NYC: Modern American @ The Gramercy Tavern, Flatiron District

8 days, a whole lot of food, sightseeing and talking with strangers.  The last stop of my trip after a grabbing a quick slice at Artichoke Bassile’s was at the 1 Michelin Star gastropub, The Gramercy Tavern.  Unlike my previous dinner place at Marea, the dining scene at the Gramercy Tavern is more casual and relaxed as opposed to formal.  Most people will tell you that but do not be too complacent as the $58 dollar Seasonal Lunch Tasting Menu is a favourite among the business community.  Additionally, do no expect any productive conversations as the interior of wood and concrete walls provides little to dampen the noise from a crowded floor.

Before deciding on what to eat I ordered a lemonade.  Kids drink but a winner in Vitamin C.  The lemonade came proper with a small bottle of syrup which allows you to adjust the sweetness to your liking.  I liked how the lemonade was all about you rather than the kitchen because I preferred mine more sour than sweet and that is exactly how I had it :)!

It did not take long after the bread course for my Amuse Bouche to reach.  No mention of the bread at Marea or the Gramercy Tavern because the best bread still hails from either Le Atelier de Joel Robuchon, HK or Tetsuya’s, Sydney. The Amuse Bouche was a complimentary salad filled with the little pleasures of life.  Little chunks of lobsters, sweet grapes halves, crispy croutons, and fresh bean.  All of which were tossed in a vinaigrette.

Amuse Bouche; Lobster, Grapes, Croutons, Pole Bean

The first course was another salad which tasted more like a continuation of the Amuse Bouche rather than a course itself.  In the salad were the vegetables of summer.  Crisp, refreshing and tasty.  This is what makes vegan stay vegans and carnivores refuse to eat vegetables.  Contradictory?  No.   The salad was good but not life changing enough to make people become a convert.

Cucumber Salad; Carrots, Leeks and Meyer Lemon

Another serve of “salad" graced the menu again.  This time, in the form of luxury.  Lobster and eggs with pieces of little pickled ramps.  Sweet lobsters paired with a balanced egg salad.  Not to sweet, or overladen with mayonnaise and neither was it boringly bland.  Lobsters from my experience over the week seem to be a trademark seafood during summer.  Clearly enough, the freshness of the crustacean was intact at the tavern and maximised by its minimalistic preparation.  Poached.

Lobster Salad;  Pole Bean, Pickled Ramps, Egg Salad

Next came my favourite course of the day, a course of fish.  I dislike fish that are stinky and tend to avoid fish wherever I go, but never when it is in the hands of a capable chef.  I have read on other blogs before that the Chef at the Gramercy Tavern cooked at a bistro in Japan prior to coming here.    This dish made it obvious.  Perfectly cooked fish, in a clear mushroom consommé with a sprinkling of green garlic infused oil.  The focus on the fish in this dish showed clarity in the chef’s approach.  Everything was about serenading the fish and it was done well.

Halibut; Kale, Green Garlic, Mushroom Broth

A serve of duck changed the course from white to red meat.  How well was the duck cooked?  The picture says it all.  How good did it taste?  The picture says nothing.  I think for a gamey bird like duck, you need a little more flavour to eat.  That does not mean serving it laden with an overbearing sauces but definitely a little bit more than what Gramercy Tavern put on the plate that day.  Coming in here,  I was expected the red meat to be served a little like the beef Rossini at Sage, KL.  This was OK but not something I would applaud for unconditionally.

Roasted Duck; Radish, Almonds, Wheat Berries

After a refreshing palate cleanser of berry foam and orange custard, came the dessert.  I like my dessert to be sweet but mildly sweet.  A fruity-sweet dessert is more welcomed any day than a sugary sweet one. Not a big fan of meringue.  But when something comes out with lots of fragrance but almost 0 sweetness, mannnn it was hard to down.  Sorry the Gramercy Tavern, this has had to be the most try-hard dessert I have ever eaten.  The beauty of it though were all the layers of texture from the smooth Panna Cotta, to the crumbly apricot pieces to the tapioca pudding.  But perhaps 1 or 2 ingredients less.  All I needed was a Apricot Panna Cotta with more sweetness in it and just 1 other element to finish.  

Apricot Panna Cotta; Tapioca Pudding, Coconut, Thyme

Thankfully the creations of the little oven were pretty decadent.  Macarons were good, nougat were OK and the chocolate was spot on.

A sub-$60 dollar meal which consisted of +/- 8 courses depending on what you call a “course” means WenY should just shut up.  But no way.  The food here was superb in some sense but where it was close to excelling, it did not.  Have you heard Lily Allen’s “Not Fair”?   Close enough.  But where the Gramercy Tavern did well, it really worked.  Lobster & Egg salad?  Win.  Halibut in Mushroom Consommé?  Win.  Then the average Joe’s which were the two starting salads and the duck.  The Hitler of them all?  The Panna Cotta.  So close to conquering the world yet so far.   Progressive dining places like Marea, Tori Shin, Robuchon, and Sepia got better as the course progressed.  But my journey here was like a trekking adventure.  Ups and downs of different peaks but a thrilling one nonetheless.


WenY

NYC: Mixed Platter and Rice @ The Halal Guys, Mid Town.

Good food does not always have to come with a large price tag.  Hidden amongst the ritz and glitz of the Manhattan borough is a story about a food cart phenomenon.  Started by a Egyptian migrant in 1992 who belittled the boring hot dog stands, he started a stall serving halal Egyptian fare on the streets.  Hence the name, the Halal Guys.  His first stall  located between the 53rd Street and 6th Avenue opposite Hilton Hotel still serves up generous portions of meat (chicken or lamb) on rice and flat bread topped with delicious lashings of yoghurt based sauce.  Since then, he has inspired many imitations but none is a good according to biased fans.   

The original store operates between 7pm-4am, 7 days a week(apparently).  When I was there at 10pm, there was a long queue which cleared very quickly but be mindful of the service which deteriorates significantly between busy and calmer nights.

During my stay I could not help but come here twice for a quick takeaway that was surely to satisfy.  My choice here would be the mix platter as it gets you the best of both worlds.  For $6 with no tax/tips, you get a serve of nuclear red rice topped with tender pulled chicken and superbly flavoursome lamb mince as well as a serve of bread and  chopped lettuce.  Once you get your food, move out of the way and start pouring the sauce you like.  First up is a white sauce that resembles a creamy-tasty yoghurt-like sauce.  Then comes the party crasher, a bottle of barbecue sauce.  That was lame.  In the last bottle was a fiery chill sauce that I guarantee will have you tear and shit lava.  Not joke lol. My preferred mix would be a 5 portion of white sauce to 1 red sauce.  It was just right for my Malaysian taste buds.

Nuclear red rice @@!  Not sure what was in it but the right was tasty just by itself!

I really do not think there is much to say.  I would like to call it a Briyani but in no way did this famous rice platter have the same spices like a Briyani.  Yet, it was still every bit tasty.  At the Halal Guys, the food skips all the complexities and dives straight into the comfort food category.  Carbs, meat and delicious sauces.  After two meals here, I was completely satisfied.  Surely this had no Michelin grades or professional recognition.  But to establish a culture that sir, is a class act.  With up to 3 carts and an intent to take the States by storm with a chain-like store, the Halal Guys will not disappoint.   From the hundred dollar meals to the penny pinchers I had in NYC, the Halal Guys will always be something to remember.  No it is no molecular gastronomy but rather a simple pleasure.  Spending 8 days in this big city was definitely insufficient to enjoy all the goodies the city had to offer.  But if you are filled to the brim but still want a midnight supper to conclude, the Halal Guys will be there waiting.

WenY  

NYC: Yakitori @ Tori Shin, Upper East Side

Recommended by friends and seconded by the sushi masters at Sushi Azabu,  Tori Shin the one-Michelin star Yakitoriya in the bustling Manhattan became host to my dinner on a rainy night.   Equipped with a charcoal grill fuelled by imported oak-tree charcoal, Tori Shin remains true to the Yakitori practice.  In here, be prepared for a predominantly chicken based menu which the chefs lovingly hand-grill each and every skewer.   I can already imagine people frowning at the word “chicken” but how can I blame you after having so many bad experiences myself.   Chicken is a common protein which means many people tend to abuse the convenience of it.  But after a long time comes something special like Tori Shin.

A moment at Tori Shin with Head Chef and Manager, Atsushi Kono.

As per usual, when at a restaurant like this I decided to go with the Omakase.  After all, if you are a newcomer and want to know what to eat, why not try the best the restaurant has to offer?

Pickled cucumber and radish

The first course of the night was a seasonal course of prawns, mozzarella, bean mix and a tomato like chutney.  It was nowhere near the conventional Japanese I was expecting, yet every bit was more-ish.  Fresh, and appetising with an intention to make one feel like eating more.  Reminds me a little of the pickled vermicelli at Kanta!

Then came the grilled Leba, or Chicken Liver.  Perfectly charred on the outside, creamy on the inside.  Imagine Foie Gras like consistency in the middle serenaded by a woody smokiness.  At the very last piece I added the recommended lemongrass salt which really elevated the flavours beyond the norm.

If you do not do organs, the salt will help a lot! 

The palate cleanser. A small bowl of grated radish with a drizzling of soy. 

Harami, chicken ribs.

Nankotsu, cartilage. Not a big fan of this as it is something I discard from my chicken every single time.  To some though, it is a delicacy.  A true example of the idiom "one man's rubbish is another man's treasure".

Pork Belly with Garlic Miso. Need I say more? Lovely crust on the pork with a garlicky miso to pair. Sweet!

Shiitake. I always knew this little fungus was magical beyond the large red toadstool in children storybooks.  Juicy, earth and with a drizzling of lemon, simple but yummy.

Onions.  You might think I am getting scammed at this point. Michelin dollar for chicken portions that no one really eats, shrooms and now onions.  Do not be fooled.  Even the Koreans put this little lovely herb on their barbecue.  When slowly charred over charcoal, these little beauties caramelises and becomes amazingly sweet.

Soriresu, or chicken oyster.  The most tender part of the chicken.  Juicier than the tenderloin or the thigh, inexperience chefs often discard this section with the carcass after carving the chicken.  At Tori Shin, a crisp and salty skin cover hide a tender chicken pieces that is simply juicy. Mind bogglingly good.

Thigh meat with yuzukosho.

Duck with asparagus.  Thinly sliced duck flesh could easily be mistaken by a high grade beef cooked to perfection.  But its mild gaminess was the giveaway.

The next summer dish.  A dish consisting of marinated diced tomatoes.  Felt like a Japanese bruschetta but with a much cleaner, and crisp finish.  Refreshing :)

Breast meat with Yuan Sauce & Moromiso & Shiso.  A chef specialty and favourite.  Tender chicken pieces marinated in a trio of soy, sake and mirin before being grilled on a skewer.  Topped with sliced shiso and Moromiso.  An explosion of flavours.  The chicken itself had layer of saltiness, sweetness and fragrance from the marinade.  Topped with miso and shiso it was a very nice bite!

Special meatball which consisted of two different mince; chicken and duck.  This was my request for my final piece.  It was simply wow.  Tender and juicy on the inside with rich flavours from the countless basting done.   Nom nom nom!

The last course was a rice dish.  My choice was the Oyako-don.  Chicken, eggs, scallion, onions and rice.  Whilst I found the over marinate was a little under and could do with more mirin/soy, I was absolutely pleased with the silkiness of the egg.  It was just so more-ish.  I added my own soy and made the dish a little saltier and was super happy.  After finishing, I had a bowl of chicken broth to wash it all down.  This definitely had my approval.  Good stuff!

The dessert was a Shiso sorbet.  Could not have had anything more refreshing to end the night with.   This leaf has a beautiful sweetness and fragrant to it.   Never knew it could be turned into something sweet as my meals on Seoul and now the States had taught me that Shiso was frequently used in savoury dishes.  To see it used as a dessert, was an eye opener.

Everyone has a different experience when it comes to eating.  One thing for sure is that the balance between good or bad never comes close.  For every exceptional restaurant come 3 or 4 bad experiences whilst most sit in the middle.   Then we have grilled chicken. Talk dry, sometimes undercooked flesh with the outer bit charred. God must be a very busy man listening to the number of complains from below.  But when done right, it become an impressionist.  A subject so capable almost like an art movement.  Tori Shin does exactly that.  Food is after all art no?  The one good Tori Shin does at this exclusive yakitoriya might be enough to make all wrongs done by other chef become right.  Faith in grilled chicken restored?  100%.  The good dinner tonight goes beyond the 1 star rating under the Michelin system.  Tori Shin has  got to be one of the most underrated restaurants in town!

WenY