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Monday, July 27, 2015

Bites: A quick lunch bite @ Jun, Perth City.

Whether its a cheap lunch alternative or  an authentic dinner bento, Jun is a venue not to be missed.  Its large clientele of Japanese during lunch hours especially is clear indication that this basement diner is doing something right. 

This lunch we ordered several of their punch specials which includes the usual suspects Chicken Karaage, Chicken Katsu and another Chicken dish called the Tatsuta-age.  These chicken dishes are comparable to your suburban Japanese takeaway but in massive proportions.
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The Chicken Tatsuta-Age

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The Chicken Kara-age

Confused about between a Kara-age and Tatsuta-age? They are both fried chicken right? So I thought! But no worries Google the source of know-it-all tells me that,  the Kara-age does not necessarily need to be marinaded but the Tatsuta-age always is!  More importantly, Tatsuta-age uses a tapioca starch instead of the wheat flour used by Kara-age.  This results in a more crunchy slightly chewy fried batter that is very similar to that of the Taiwanese XXL Fried Chicken.  Hope that helps!

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The Chicken Katsu

Most people prefer would rather pay an extra $3 premium for Jun than dine at Taka during lunch, and there are legit reasons for that.  This includes Jun spending more time and love in the preparation of their food,  and top class Kara-age.  If you come in at night, expect to be treated to some tender braised soy pork belly and amazing skewered meats.  During lunch that day, the only thing that did not really deliver was the Chicken Katsu and the rice as it was a little wetter than I would have liked it to be! The Chicken Katsu on the other hand had a batter that way too thick!  It felt way over the top.  But for those who had the Kara-age or the Tatsuta-age, it was all good :)!  Note, come early and sit first!  Late comers wait longer and it reduces the pleasure of dining at Jun.


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Regards,
WenY 

Friday, July 24, 2015

Bites: The best Salmon and Mandarin Pudding @ Harvest Espresso, Victoria Park

Harvest Espresso has changed its menu to respect the produce in season and the winter style of dining.  Their approach is the perfect way of dining where everything is ripe, and full of flavour. New on its menu was a hearty braised beef, a crispy skin salmon and a decadent orange dessert. 

Last winter, they served a beef dish that was slightly underwhelming i.e. the beef pie that did not really tickle my fancy.  But how about this Winter's slow braised cheeks with celeriac puree, PX and remoulade salad?  To start, it was a very hearty combination on the plate complimented by a sensational plating which gave it a hint of sophistication.  Love the contrast of the shiny dark-ish brisket and the remoulade salad at the top!
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In essence, the braised beef could have easily be the best winter dish but there were a few slip ups starting with the tougher than expected beef cheek indicating that more braising time was required.  I liked the sauce but found it needing more inspiration beyond the rich PX flavour.  I wanted a sauce combining perfectly caramelised root vegetables and some other element of sweetness to drive the dish home as the PX sauce had a noticeably bitter note to it.  The beef cheeks were nice but it was no heaven.

The next dish was the Crispy Salmon Fillet with braised leeks, butter lettuce jus, toasted buckwheat, and Hon Shimeji mushrooms.
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Another dish which reaped the benefits of the slow cooking process.  This was the best fish dish Harvest Espresso has ever served to me.  It was the perfect fish dish with the salmon skin perfectly crispy.  Add the plump and juicy mushrooms along with the buttery melt-in-your-mouth leeks and I was in heaven.  A dish like this is a dish that does not want to make you put your fork and knife down.  Just eat eat eat and eat!!  How can one forget the finer details of leak ash which was a nice touch which gave a hint of smokiness.  It was very mild though!  Probably due to subdued sensations attributed to the winter chill!

The classic mushroom omelette is a dish that never grows old with the season.
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Its creamy centre, and generous ingredients make it an all time staple.  Noms!

The sweet ending of the meal is none other than Harvest Espresso’s steamed Mandarin Pudding. Harvest Espresso's Mandarin Pudding has made its way across the whole Instagram for the period I was away at work.
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Thankfully, it lived up to the hype with the bright orange sponge coming out super light and fragrant.  Its accompaniment of toasted muesli, jelly, subtle coconut cream and earl grey crumble was a combination where you get all these little flavours working together to give texture, flavour and fragrance.  This was an absolute stunner of a dish.  This Mandarin Pudding from Harvest Espresso was loved by all.  Smashing!!

No conclusion needed here.  All you need to do is visit Harvest Espresso this weekend!

WenY
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Tuesday, July 21, 2015

Singapore: Classical French Dining @ Les Amis in the Shaw House, Singapore.

Les Amis was my final lunch before I left Singapore. This traditional French diner serves the classics with a modern presentation and a pinch of Asia.  Holding a spot in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant and previously featured in The Worlds 100 Best Restaurants, this was another highly acclaimed restaurant that got me excited and coming from Jaan at Swissotel just the day before, I was prepared to be absolutely blown.

The first dish Les Amis had for the table was the Foie Gras terrine with mango chutney.
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The assemble was modernly presented on a long tile but the terrine tasted mediocre at best.  Its seasoning was decent but it not spread well across the bread.  I was actually hoping for a more pate finish that simply melts in my mouth.  Thankfully enough, the slightly tart but ripe flavours of the fragrant mango provided a consolation prize finish.

Pan seared scallops served in “nage”, and salmon roe
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Plump scallops in a buttery emulsion.   Each of which was cooked perfectly with a thin crust on the outside with its sweetness and juiciness maintained on the inside.  Need I elaborate more?  Perhaps the complexity of the nage was a little understated and the fragrant of the wine was not pronounce  but otherwise it was perfect!

Ocean trout cooked unilateral, cabbage and olive emulsion
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Ocean trout was hard to fault and it was probably the least mentioned dish that day.  Besides enjoying the layers peel off one after another, I really appreciated the subtle undertones of the emulsion which complemented the trout.  One fault which I did not understand was why the skin was not removed and crisped to a shard before being placed back on top!  It would have made it all the better!

For the mains, Les Amis presented us with a choice of the “Pork” aor the “Chicken”.
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Pork from Carpathian Mountains with charcuterie sauce and mashed potato.  This was not mine but I wished it was! Presentation was flawless and its taste was yums!  Very simple, and fuss free but the substance was there.  Surprisingly tender for something so lean.  The side of mashed potatoes were “OK” but not as buttery as how Joel Robuchon does his.  Palatable nonetheless.

Traditional Roasted Chicken, confit potatoes, cabbage with mustard and jus.
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Just yesterday after dining on the best poultry at Jaan at Swissotel,  I was simply flabbergasted to be served a bird like this at Les Amis. Technically, it was edible but in a restaurant like this, everything felt wrong.  The presentation was crap, the salad was bitter and the chicken was under-seasoned.  Generally the French are very light on their seasoning and it works but in this instance, it just killed the chicken. Twice! Note: the potatoes were edible. 

Alphonso Mango, sugar sphere.
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Keep the best for the last they say.  Perhaps Les Amis has picked up that habit too.  This impressive looking dessert had all the bells and whistles to make heads turn.  A quirky-glossy sphere that just intrigues.  When it reached the table, seeing the sphere slowly crumble under the knock of the spoon was as addictive as popping the bubbles of a bubble wrap.  The mango flavours were lovely and the sorbet on the inside was just superb.  I have always preferred lighter more refreshing fruity desserts over sugar laden chocolate ones.  The Alphonso Mango was right up my alley.  But with all sugar shards, expect it to stick in between your teeth!

To finish our meal at Les Amis, we were served served hot drinks and some Palmiers.
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These butterfly shaped pastries were right on the dollar to finish the meal. Sipping tea made the experience all the better.  But was the Palmier all les Amis had to offer to finish the meal? =/!!!!

To sum up the lunch, Les Amis is a restaurant that promises classical fine dining without kicking up a fuss.   Its techniques were simple and some of it worked.  I can imagine this is what retirement feels like.  It feels great but a little sedentary and all of it, very rational.  Not much fireworks in the food Les Amis presented to us today.  The execution was fair but it did not really sweep my peers and I off our feet.  My main of chicken was a clear disaster but other dishes like the fish was slightly blend but still yummy.  My dining partners were clearly left divided between the scallops and dessert of Alphonso Mango.  But for me, I felt that neither was good enough to dampen my disappointment at Les Amis.  For a restaurant that boast a position higher than Jaan on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant list, I expected a lot more.

See my review of Jaan here.

WenY