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Thursday, September 24, 2015

Copenhagen: Danish Pastries @ Lagkagehuset Bakery, Kobenhavn K - Copenhagen.

Danish pastries are a morning staple like Vegemite is to Australia.  In Copenhagen you are sure go past many bakeries in town with one the more popular chain stores being Lagkagehuset and it was my early morning stop on Sunday morning. The Lagkagehuset Bakery was perfect considering most of the other bakeries close on Sundays.  From the outside, one might mistake the modern exterior for an upscale bakery.  But do not be fooled as sleek exteriors are almost a must in this stylish Danish capital.  The baked products are on display so just tell the waitress what you want and she will pick it up for you.  Heating is available too. 
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My two picks for breakfast were the chocolate croissant and the classic Cinnamon Snail.  Despite having some of the best layers for a croissant, the lack of an intense butter aroma made the usually decadent chocolate croissant very dull.  It definitely needed a re-work!  It was safe to say that when in Rome, do what the Romans do.  So do not eat Croissants in Copenhagen :P!
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Thankfully the Cinnamon Roll was up to scratch and lived up to my expectations. Peeling the crisp layers off, you get you fingers all sticky before revealing the hidden pockets of tasty cinnamon sugar. First bite in and the tasty roll was faultless. Who am I kidding?  I am in Copenhagen after all!  Deeper inside, you get the soft more fluffy bits!

No wonder many have praised them for their pastries which I have to say was quality although not as amazing as what some have claimed it to be! Note that Lagkagehuset was one of the few hardworking bakeries open for on a dreamy Sunday. Its prices were decent and the quality of Lagkagehuset's pastries were up to scratch. Stick to the Danish basics and you will do just fine!! 

WenY

Monday, September 21, 2015

Copenhagen: Danish Pastries and the best Hot Dogs @ Andersen Bakery, Kobenhavn V - Copenhagen.

Great breakfasts make normal days better.  If you are in Copenhagen, I have a little place for you to start.   This bakery is the love child of a Japanese Baker and Danish Pastry that goes back some half century ago.  Conveniently enough it is located right along the walls of Tivoli Gardens, the worlds oldest theme park.  This is Andersen’s Bakery.  

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The morning is a little drizzly when I got out at 8 in the morning but the good folks at Andersen Bakery starts before dawn to ensure everyone is well-fed in the rainy Autumn weather.  My pick for the morning was the classic Cinnamon Roll and a  Danish Vanilla Creme Crown.  To keep me warm was a pot of English Breakfast.
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The Cinnamon Roll was a classic Danish Pastry. It smells so good it was unmistakable from the moment I stepped in Andersen’s Bakery.  Fortunately enough, it tasted as good as it smelt.  Crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside, this bun was absolutely more-ish with the little bursts of cinnamon & sugar mix in certain parts of the roll!
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The second pastry was not a default choice of mine.  After snooping for awhile, I was overwhelmed with the choices pastries and I decided the to get waitress to recommend something she liked personally.  Her choice was the Danish Vanilla Creme Crown which was spot on!
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Each bite was flaky and when you hit that custard centre, you get a silky smooth custard with a fragrant hit of warm-floral vanilla.  Best of all, this custard was the real deal.  Not some random custard out of the can.

But when the clock strikes 10 in the morning and you want something proper to keep you going through lunch, I recommend Andersen’s Hotdogs for a wholesome brunch.  My choice that afternoon was the Spicy Dog.  
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For 55 Crowns you get a delicious signature hotdog in a white bun, both of which are specially made in house.  To finish, the hot dog is given royal treatment where it is topped with fried shallots, JalapeƱos, relish and wasabi mayo. 
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The Spicy Dog combination is simply potent and as you bite into the juicy hot dog, you soon realise why the Danes are one of the largest hot dog consumers in the world despite their relatively small population.  This had to be the best hot dog I have ever eaten.  Not to mention the toppings which paired with the hot dog so very well.  You get the crispy fragrant onions, the tangy relish and a chilli kick from the JalapeƱos before thin slices of cucumber cools the tongue.  It was lovely.  To complement the chow, Andersen Bakery also had a freshly squeezed elderflower lemonade!
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Andersen Bakery is one of the most popular places in Copenhagen and it is not surprising at all.  Top notch Danish Pastries paired with amazing hot dogs makes a formidable combination.  If you have one chance to eat Danish Pastries/Hot Dogs in Copenhagen, it would have to be this little bakery.  Also, do note that the prices here are a quite similar to what you would pay for say a fully loaded hot dog on the road while the Danish Pastries are the same price like the ones you would get from your local baker.  So if you ever go to Copenhagen in Denmark, remember to stop by Andersen Bakery.

WenY

Sunday, September 13, 2015

Copenhagen: Modern Thai Dining @ Khun Juk Oriental, Kobenhavn K - Copenhagen.

I took my first step out of the Netherlands this month.  And it’s to the home of the new Nordic movement, Copenhagen.  The old city is home to several restaurants which are considered to be among the worlds finest.  Over my 3 days of stay, I visited several interesting eateries.  From the morning staple of Danish Pastries to a trendy Thai eatery before finishing on a Michelin starred ecstasy, it was safe to say I ate a lot. :)!

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First night out and I am venturing out to a surprise candidate for my late night fuel.  Khun Juk Oriental is a modern Thai eatery Located not too far away from the touristy Kobenhavn area in Copenhagen.  If you fly in late Friday like me, its almost a blessing that most would have already finished their dinner, so I walked in to Khun Juk Oriental without a reservation at 8.30pm with no difficulties!  The sitting area was beautifully oriental and the service was welcoming. A rare combination coming from so many thousands of miles away.  Knowing it was going to be a modern Thai dinner, I did not quite know what to expect.

A hot towel sat waiting and tap water was served.  After refreshing myself, a prawn toast topped with sticky sweet chilli sauce was served complementary of Khun Juk Oriental.   This followed by my order of Tom Kha (98 DKK), a creamy - coconut almost Tom-Yam like chicken soup.  
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Slurps!  Nothing complements a hot bowl of soup than a drizzly cold weather.  The fragrance of the galangal root, citrusy lemon grass and coriander just made melodies in my mouth.  It has probably been too damn long since I have had a decent soup from Thailand and this was sensational.  Tender chicken pieces and a creamy consistency could have easily made this a meal with steamed rice!

My main for the night was a very simple Lamb Massaman curry (238 DKK), only if you believe my very definition of “very simple”!  
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If you are the type who always feel like their is nothing but sauce in a curry, then this dish is for you my friend.  A perfectly cooked rack of 6 lamb chops.  They were tender and pink in the middle with a lovely charr on the outside.  Served with celeriac chips, a vegetable stir fry, rice and a generous serve of Massaman sauce, it was top notch.  The slightly nutty, spicy and aromatic Massaman sauce is the perfect start for anything.  Use it as a a celeriac chip dip, sauce for the meaty rack of lamb or simply to put on your steamed rice.  It could go with anything!   I really liked how the racks were served like that.  It adds a sense of dimension where you really get your meat worth from the meal! Not just little pieces of piece which hardly adds up to much.  They also serve a similar thing with duck breast, and sirloin steak if lamb is not your kind of meat.

Despite being full, I found it hard to walk away without dessert.  I have had some amazing Thai dessert since I was a kid and I knew that I wanted something.  The menu came and there was only 1 dessert.  No choice dilemma here for sure haha.
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Thai coconut pancake with caramel sauce with coconut ice cream and fresh tropical fruits from Thailand (85 DKK).

Piping hot pancakes with a silky caramel sauce and coconut ice cream is like playing with ice and fire together.  Its hot, its cold, and it stupendously delicious.  In fact, the caramel was the tastiest palm sugar I have had in awhile.  Yummy!!  This brings me recent memories of my mom’s sago pudding with palm sugar.
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Khun Juk Oriental served me a meal worthy of calling my best first meal on a trip.  The service was courteous, and the food - amazing.  But the delicious food at Khun Juk Oriental does not come as a surprise considering the effort, the taste and the presentation poured into something one normally takes for granted.  My meal at Khun Juk Oriental is not cheap though, so I will not kid myself and claim that this was a simple take away.  I called for the bill and paid 420 DKK that night.  But for what I got, I still thought it was decently priced.  In comparison, a stall side hot dog costs 30-60 DKK and a meal at McDonalds is approximately 100 DKK.  

WenY

Monday, September 7, 2015

Bites NLD: Cantonese food with a touch of home@ Fat Kee, Chinatown

I'm always up for fine dining where over the top precision in presentation and meticulous composition of flavors are usually the highlight of a 4 hour evening. But at times, all that ones craves for is some comfort food that tastes like home. Traveling back from Amsterdam to The Hague, I decided to sample flavors a little closer to home.  Thankfully my veteran friends have a little place in Chinatown for that. 

Stepping into Fat Kee in Chinatown, this well-known Cantonese restaurant offers traditional Cantonese cuisine along with several other Indonesian dishes on their menu. For the three of us who were starving to death, we ordered three dishes which were plenty to go around.

Stir fried Kangkung with Belachan
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Simple stir fried in the aromatic Belachan. The sticky consistency of the stir fried greens makes it a close match to what's found at home minus that fragrant "sambal" bite. A noteworthy find considering how most places serve Kangkung that is still wet. 



Mixed Roast - Soy Chicken, Roasted Duck, Roasted Pork and BBQ Pork. 

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This large roast combination that we got was a bit of a mixed batch. My two friends very honestly called the Roast Duck an "overly roasted duck". It's not far from the truth but it was yummy. Something like the Hong Kong Violin duck.  However, the Roast Pork was my favourite of the lot with its crispy skin and salty five spice rub bearing close resemblance to what I would expect as a minimum.  The biggest loser would be the BBQ Pork.  The lack of caramelisation and smokiness made it no more than lean pork coated in plum sauce.


Yong Tau Foo stuffed with Prawn Meat. 
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The last dish on the table was the Yong Tau Foo. A dish where bean curd and other vegetables are usually stuffed with meat and flash fried before being cooked further in various ways.  At Fat Kee, these were beautifully braised in oyster sauce. Quite delicious I must insist. 


Fat Kee is my first venture into the Cantonese food scene here in the Netherlands. The food is simple, humble and ridiculously tasty. So do not be surprised to come any day during dinner and find the restaurant jam packed. The good news is that Fat Kee serves the food really quick and so the turn over is only 10-15 minutes long. The three dishes including the usual suspects rice and tea would set you back 43 Euros which is pretty decent!

WenY

Monday, August 24, 2015

Bites NLD: (just a little..) Street Food Culture!

Looking for street bites while in the Amsterdam?  This post might just be for you because street food in the Amsterdam can be a handful if you do not know where to go.  For every food someone has told you about, there would be 10s of reinterpretations of it scattered within close proximity of each other.  Confusing? I did all the touristy homework for you. So sit back, relax and prepare to feast.

Its fresh, its touristy and its also more expensive than other markets in town.  It is the Albert Cuyp Market.  The location of the market is convenient, and for this reason alone it should be everybody's first destination.  After all, who's got time for that hipster market 1 hour away?  From Amsterdam Station, board tram no.4 towards Station Rai.  Take the stop at Stadhouderskade and Albert Cuyp Market is just a short walk.  Not many stalls at 10am but that would have to do for my tight schedule.

At one of the many Halal Chicken Stands, you can get freshly cooked chicken off the rotisserie.
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I had three drumsticks for 2.50 and boy were they good.  Piping hot with a sweet sticky marinade that is also a little spicy.  Closer to the bone, the flesh can get a little blend so feel free to mix up your favourite concoction from all the sauces they have.
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Further down the road, some research led me to believe that I have found the best Stroopwafel in town.  Commonly known as "that guy at the Stroopwafel stand",  little did I know how amazing a freshly made Stroopwafel could taste.
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Fresh off the press, he spreads a thin layer of syrup before putting on another layer of freshly cooked wafel.  Before he handed it over to me, he advices me that the Stroopwafel (€1.50) is to be eaten laying flat so the syrup does not spill.  First bite in and it was amazing.  A warm oozy centre paired with a crisp wafel is something rave worthy for newcomers like me.  A hint of cinnamon spice felt existent albeit very mild.  No way in the world can you say you have eaten a Stroopwafel if you have not had it fresh.  The difference is simply too big!  
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Not too far away from the Stroopwafel shop is another Dutch street food classic, the Poffertjes.  These mini pancakes are traditionally served with a tiny knob of butter and a heavy sprinkling of icing sugar.  But do not be fooled, butter and icing sugar is just one of the many ways to have it.  You can get chocolate, berries, honey, and syrup too!  The possibilities are endless.
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Light, fluffy and warm, these were sinfully easy to devour.  $2.50 for about 8 pieces seemed like pretty decent value.  It was truly yummy.  Was this the best place to have it?  No idea at all.  But did I like it?  I sure did.
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Mini Pancakes (Poffertjes) at the Albert Cuyp Market.

Recommended by Johanness Van Damme who was one of the most influential food critics in Netherlands until his passing in 2013, I ended up at CafĆ© Luxembourg. What for you might ask when I was supposed to be eating street food?  Simply for its famous Kroket or Croquette.  You can find Krokets anywhere but Johanness states that CafĆ© Luxembourg is the place to be.
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.. and he is absolutely right.  Anywhere on the streets two Krokets would be €4.00, so was there any value in paying €10.00 for two veal Krokets? I  have been feeding on Kroket, Bitterballens and Frikandels at the lunch bar and none of them have came close to achieving what Cafe Luxembourg does. The perfectly crumbed Krokets were outstanding and to that tasty-gooey centre was oh so very good.  To enjoy the Kroket with the rye, start by spreading butter and mustard on the bread.  Cut the Kroket into half along its long side.  Place it on the bread and there you go, the BroodjeKroket or Croquette Sandwich.  Enjoy it with the little gherkins and pickled onions. Simple but every bit enjoyable.  (P/S: eating technique was by a Dutch guy seated next to me lol).

My final street food for the day was none other than the infamous Frites at Vlaams Friteshuis Velminckx.  
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The kiosk looked plain,  a sign of humble beginnings.  In fact, one might get a little confused to see so many people holding little paper cones filled with frites with no fast-food joints around.  But it is in this little shop where its Frites were officially graded in 1984 and held a 9 out of 10 which still holds true for today. 
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Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminckx does what every other Friteshuis do but with a lot more love.  Its assortment of sauces are nothing short of authentic and it was seriously good.  Double fried to perfection, and topped with the famous oorlog sauce (a mix of frittesaus and sate sauce, topped with onions), it was amazing how everything came together.   You get a crisp Frites with that creamy slightly tart flavour from the Frittesaus which contrasted with the sweet and nutty Sate Saus.  The toppings of mildly pungent onions gave the Frites a nice onion fragrant to sum up the whole experience.  This was easily one best Frites I have ever eaten.

1 week late I was back so Frites in the morning?  Why not if its for three?!  Coming off the station and across the first canal, we walked pass the super famous Manneken Pis. But that was not of our interest. Further down, you see Vlaamse Frites where its owner wears a catchy lab coat. But is it all for show or is there some magic in this place?
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The fries came out quick!  His Oorlog sauce is generously topped with the lovely peanut sauce mixed with the usual suspect Frittesaus.  Finished with diced onions, each bite was unusually delicious.  Its some amazing Frites I must say.  Not that far off when compared to Vlaams Friteshuis Vlemnickx.  In fact it was almost difficult to tell them apart.  These were some seriously good Frites that Vlaamse Frites make.  It was pretty sensational.   From a sauce perspective, Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminckx had a less sugar sate sauce which helped the pungent onion shine a bit more.  So that wins by a dismal margin.
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A few more things to strike of the list now.  But I have still got that apple pie so I am definitely heading back to Amsterdam lol. So keep a lookout on this space because it is surely to grow in the next few weeks :)!

WenY

Monday, August 17, 2015

Bites NLD: Chinese-French @ HanTing Cuisine, Prinsestraat

The fastest way to the heart of a country is by eating food said many.  I have recently moved to the Hague as part of my training.  As a keen foodie, I walked the predictable path of attempting to understand a culture by eating my way through town.  Last week I took the time to visit HanTing, a 1 Michelin star Chinese - French restaurant.  Located in the city, it was in a convenient spot to begin.  

The concept was really unusual because while Japanese-French establishments are as cliche as humans’ breathing in Australia,  the Chinese - French connection was new to me! But lets leave the food to do the talking.

Tray of “snacks”.  
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A superb mix of colours, textures and flavours.  The complex offering started with a squid ink bun filled with some mild horseradish which gave the sweet-ish almost brioche like bun a subtly pungent bite.  Next was the beetroot meringue.  It packed a crunch with an unmistakable earthiness from the beetroot.  This was followed by was a savoury macaroon, a crisp and cruditĆ©s with a saffron aioli dip.


Amuse Bouche
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Tomato Jelly, Mousse, celery and smoked eel.  It was acidic, creamy and salty.  All of which was serenaded by a whiff of smokiness.  Small and potent, but more importantly it was interesting.


Steamed bread with fried shallots.
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The dish of HERRING was the First course presented to me.  This fish is a typical Dutch stereotype so when it was served it felt like a surprise but not really.  Served raw, I was really quite concerned by the thick layer of “blood" running underneath the skin.  But Chef Han’s idea of serving the fish with a host of fruity and refreshing elements was absolutely genius.  Among the accompaniments identified are compressed watermelon, Yuzu dressing, Guacamole and tomato jelly.  This oily fish was buttery and left only the slightest hint of the sea in my mouth.  But scoop a little of each element to eat with the fish and it did not at all feel like a fish!  It was light, subtle, and fruity.
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HERRING


For diners that find the HERRING fishy, HanTing serves a complimentary course which felt like a re-interpretation of the Japanese “ONIGIRI”.  Its sweet-vinegary flavours readies the palate for the next course.
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The Second course featured TUNA in several ways.  Seared-all round and a sushi.  Served with red pepper puree, soya, cucumber and a wasabi jelly, this was an intricate dish. Not to mention melt-in-your mouth squid and aubergine in the middle.  But was all this effort in vain? Not all but some.  The sushi probably was the least impressive dish.  The sticky shards of rice and pressed tuna tasted stale.  With the seared tuna, I found the pairing with the lukewarm wasabi jelly log too mundane.  I did not get that kick which I got from the HERRING dish.  With the warm temperature in the dining hall, having served the dish with a wasabi sorbet would have totally win it.  Oh, do not forget to omit the sushi too!
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TUNA


My Third course was a dish of SEA BASS and razor clam.  Another dish from the sea, but this time cooked.  A good way to imagine this dish is to think of a perfectly cooked fish.  And then think of the last time you had a perfectly cooked fish and cry.  Ok just joking lol.  Think of the fish and at the same time imagine a soy based sauce that feels buttery, filled with shrooms and a touch of sweet rice wine.  Everything was bang on perfect.  The HERRING course I had at HanTing is probably not to everyone taste, but this was definitely a crowd pleaser.
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SEA BASS


The Fourth and last savoury course was a meal of VEAL.  Served pink in the middle the VEAL was tender, juicy and flavoursome.  The seared loin was well-seasoned and one flavour that was more prominent than others was five spice.  A spice frequently used by Chinese to season meat.  On the side you had turnips, yam and also a very special solidified lard with shallots.  By itself, the veal was delicious.  But melt the flavoured lard onto the meat and you get the hint of ginger and spring onions which perfumed the veal so very nicely it was awesome.
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VEAL

Last but not least was a sweet ending.  Sorbet frozen using liquid Nitrogen, white chocolate ganache shaped and twisted, and to cut through the sweetness of the lot, some sliced candied Mandarins. 
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WHITE CHOCOLATE & BERRIES

The meal at HanTing was nothing short of being impressive.  The kitchen’s thought on the plate was clearly “more is more” and not "less is more".  While this worked brilliantly for most courses, the TUNA took a few steps back with that thought.   I wanted a little more surprise that suited the warm summer season.  But with 4 out of the 5 courses winning my approval, it is a clear sign that HanTing’s 1 Michelin star is well-deserved.  If you had to ask me what my favourite courses were, I would no doubt vouch for the Herring which freaked me out initially.  Its buttery sweet flesh was second to none.   The Sea Bass is the second best followed suit by the Veal and Dessert of White Chocolate & Berries.  

WenY

Thursday, August 6, 2015

Bites: Re-evaluating my favourite degustation @ Petite Mort, Shenton Park.

When I last visited Petite Mort, I loved it. The food was good and course after course I was consistently vowed by their presentation and composition.  Last week, I returned with my tongue a little keener, fussier, and meaner after my escapades in Singapore and Cambodia.  Was I still impressed by Petite Mort’s offering?

To understand where Petite Mort has evolved over the last couple of months, I decided to re-visit their degustation menu.

To start, was Petite Mort’s ever so buttery Brioche and another Sun dried tomato pastry.
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Onion Thyme Veloute, Ham Hock w/ Manjimup Truffles
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I pondered on whether the truffles were worth adding to this course.  But when the waitress said that these were the best in W.A., I decided to go with it.  It came out so fragrant that I was impressed by the smell itself.  But when the smooth Veloute was poured in, it felt as though the impact of the truffles were no longer as apparent.  Was it the right combination?

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Cured Salmon, Cuttlefish & Ponzu, Wasabi Sorbet, Yuzu Jelly.
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This was a reminiscence of my last visit.  But this time around, the cured salmon provided a more buttery finish to the course.

Pork Belly, Pig Head, Slaw, Apple
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A pork belly slow-cooked for 37 hours before being seared, a cheek meat shaped as a cube and minute fried to crisp and condiments as you know it.   Topped with a crisp crackling, this dish is everything you thought you knew, but you did not know.   There are hidden inspirations from a British classic as well as a German one in this course.  The slaw was a sauerkraut to pair with the very tender, fatty and crisp cheek.  A good re-interpretation of the Pork Knuckle and Sauerkraut.  Meanwhile, the apple jelly paired perfectly with the meaty pork belly to reveal a meal of Pork Chops and Apples.

Chicken, Rocket, Porcini, Cassoulet
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Sous vide chicken roulade with a sensational plating.

My main consisted of a beef flank, crisp shallots and the tastiest potato gratin.  Sensational.  So good that I forgot the picture! Lol.

Death By Chocolate 
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My choice of dessert was similar to the one I had before.  The satisfaction was no less than when I first had it.  Petite Mort’s Death by Chocolate is every bit as delicious as it needed to be.  With all the textures, it was something that triumph Jaan’s Chocolate dessert with no questions asked.  It was that good.

SoufflĆØ, Yuzu, Custard, Yoghurt
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XL’s choice of dessert.  A show of amazing alchemy and precision cooking.  I still re-call the moment the waitress poured that vial of yuzu custard and the whole SoufflĆ© rose.  Sensational.

The degustation ended on a sweet note with the Petite Fours
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The meal at Petite Mort was exactly as I remembered it to be with each course satisfying all my senses.  To be impressed twice shows that  Petite Mort made several strong refinements which were especially impactful.  The buttery salmon was one of them.  But it was the intricate thought of the Pork which impressed me the most.  After my dinner at Petite Mort, I was happy yet I could not help but wonder whether Petite Mort has played it a little too safe.  Was Petite Mort on the same level to complete with International Chefs from Jaan, Le Atelier de Joel Robuchon or Sepia?

First Visit to Petite Mort

WenY
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Monday, August 3, 2015

Bites: A little Choux @ Chu Bakery, Highgate.

I love my desserts but the ones I like are usually balanced in sugar, not over the top in appearance but potent in flavours that could either be complex or simple. Chu Bakery is the new kid on the block.  Located opposite Hyde Park in Highgate a group of fresh faced entrepreneurs are bringing a new dimension of pastries to this side town.  
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Whilst I packed a box of goodies for my friends, I only really tried the Choux Pastry and the Chocolate Eclair.
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Needless to say, the presentation here was top notch.  But what tickled my fancy even more was how everything was produced with such refinement.  Just when you thought you have tasted it all, you get blown away by the silky smooth chocolate in the eclair.  The rich chocolate filling was spot on and everything was simply yums!
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The Choux pastry itself tasted rather ordinary but in a way that was ordinary good.  Slightly crusty and chewy outer bit with a fluffy inside.  But the cream filling was all the rave for me. It was so rich, and creamy yet it felt very light all at the same time.  Then Chu Bakery's geniusly crafts little blocks of jelly which gave the Choux a different kind of consistency and an extra punch of flavour.
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To Marco White’s pleasure Chu Bakery seemed more intent on refining the item and not reinventing the wheel.  I was fortunate to try some of their offerings in the short period of time I was at Chu Bakery.  With its promising offerings, it is only a matter of time before I return.  Next time, I will most definitely try their Choux Pastry with Matcha!

WenY
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